Water Safety for Your Dog: High Risk Breeds & Puppy First Aid

Many puppies leap before they look, or simply fall into the swimming pool, hot tub or break through ice on the lake and can’t get out. Dog paddling may be instinctive but they can still drown if they can’t climb out, get too tired to float, or are at risk of being top-heavy.

High Risk Breeds

Some puppy breeds adore the water but others have a hard time staying afloat. For instance, Labrador Retrievers especially love the water. Puppy breeds with heavy coats such as Collies become waterlogged and tend to dislike puddle jumping. Heavy-bodied breeds like Bulldogs have trouble staying afloat and actually could sink and be unable to get out of the pool.

All pets are at risk but especially small breeds and puppies are most prone to drowning. Their inexperience, curiosity, and fearlessness prompt them to explore but they may be unable to climb out of even small bodies of water. The steep sides of backyard pools and hot tubs prove particularly dangerous during the summer.

Water Safety for Puppy Swimming

Pool safety is just as important for puppies as it is for children. Most backyard pools have steps in the deep end along with a shallow end. Teach your pup to find these easy exits through guidance and praise. Never ever leave pets unsupervised around the pool.

Does your pup enjoy a nice boat ride on the gulf? Camping and spending time with our furry friends on water can be tons of fun, but pets can easily lose their footing on slippery boat decks. Even if your pup manages the trek back to land, they may become lost on the beach or sandbar, so it is important that they have their identification tags/collars on, as well as microchipped.

To avoid your pup hurdling into the water at 40 mph, provide double-sided rubber mats on boat decks for a more secure footing for your pet. A harness and a strong lead or tether also helps assure your pet stays secure onboard. Don’t forget safety life vests for pets. You can find these products at most any pet store these days to assure even if they fall into the water, they have some assistance. Most of these floatation harnesses provide a handle for you to lift your pup upwards out of the water with.

First Aid for Drowning

Please, pet-proof pools and other water adventures to prevent tragedies all year round. Supervise your water-babies so cooling off during the summer stays safe. Water games should be fun for the entire family.

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Simple tips on how to pet proof your garden

How do I create a pet-friendly garden or yard?

Your garden is the perfect place to enjoy with your pets. However, while you may be in the safety of your home, there are a number of hazards present in your garden which could harm your pet.

Here are a few cat and dog-friendly garden ideas to help protect your garden and keep your pet safe.

Raise your flower beds

Raising your flower beds help keep dogs out of flowerbeds and protect your more delicate plants. For areas where dogs and children will be rough housing, choose tougher, hardy plants or shrubs that can withstand a bit of rough-n-tumble.

Identify toxic plants

There are quite a few plants out there that are toxic to animals, so make sure that your garden only contains cat and dog-friendly plants and flowers if you are to leave them left to their own devices in your garden. Common toxic plants include: crocuses, azaleas, bleeding heart (dicentra), box, bluebells, broom, cyclamen, daffodils, dieffenbachia, hyacinth bulbs, mistletoe, yew, onions, and rhubarb. Although most plants are not attractive to pets, puppies and kittens are especially inquisitive and dogs can chew on sticks where you were pruning.

Secure fencing or enclosure

Ensure that your fencing is secure and without gaps or holes to prevent little escape artists. Consider your pet’s habits as well. Do they tend to dig? If so, give them an area to dig in and encourage him to use this area by hiding toys or treats, rather than your nicely cared for lawn. For cats, consider planting cat nip (Nepeta cataria) or cat grass that is safe for them to chew on.

Pet-friendly garden checklist

- Clear pathways

- Raise flower beds

- Secure fencing

- Provide shade

- Store chemicals and fertilizers in a safe place

- Identify toxic plants

- Keep compost out of reach

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8 Ways to Keep Puppies Cool in Summer

At such a young age, puppies are still learning how to regulate their body’s temperature when it’s hot out. It’s up to us as their caretaker’s to keep them comfortable on sweltering hot summer days. While letting your pup chill indoors with the air conditioning on, owners need to create an environment conducive to cooling down for outdoor pups.

Provide a Shady Rest Spot

If you don’t have shade provided by a tree in the yard, an outdoor patio umbrella or sunshade canopy that covers a portion of your dog’s run will work just fine. Also to consider is a well ventilated dog crate or doghouse with ample airflow. Providing several options will teach your pup where to seek shelter when their body temperature rises.

Offer Cool Drinking Options

Cold water aids in the evaporative process that happens when your dog pants. It’s one of the main ways that puppies (and dogs) regulate their body temperature. However, playful pups may dump or tip over the water bowl. One way to avoid such an incident is to dig a bucket-sized hole in the ground and fit a watering pail or bowl inside. This will stop your pup from tipping over their watering well. The soil will also act as a great insulator, keeping the water cooler for longer.

Create a Water Fountain

A water faucet attachment can transform your hose bib into a puppy water fountain. Special attachments like the Lixit Faucet will provide your puppy water on their demand. Train them to activate the drinking fountain before leaving them alone.

Freeze a Treat

Fill your pup’s favorite rubber chew toy (like a Kong) with soft food blended with chicken brother or water. Then, stick it in the freezer. Offer these pup friendly ‘pupsicles’ to help your pup stay cool.

Related: Dog Treats Recipe - Pumpkin Ice Cream

Misting Fans

Misting fans made for pets will keep your pet’s fur damp, keeping their body temperature under control. Avoid placing misting fans on bare ground, as it can create a muddy mess (which is very enticing to a puppy).

Pool Party Plans

A kiddie wading pool is perfect for a pup. Place in the shade, invite a few doggie friends over, and tire out exuberant pups. This is a great way to familiarize your puppy with water and water sports.

Dig a Dugout

A sandbox in a shaded corner of the yard will keep your pup cool. Puppy’s that love a good afternoon dig might even excavate their own spot. Wetting down a spot of sand for them to dig will create the perfect nest to chill and escape the heat of the day. Sand is a great medium for digging, and is far easier to shake out of fur than say, dirt or wet mud.

Cooling Tech for Pets

You can find cooling bandanas, collars, jackets, and mats for indoor/outdoor use. Soak in water before leaving and your pet is good to go for roughly five hours.

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How Hot is Too Hot For Your Dog?

Dogs can suffer burns to their paws on days most people wouldn’t consider searingly hot.

If the outside temperature is a pleasant 77F (25C), there’s little wind and humidity is low, asphalt and tarmac can reach a staggering 125F (52C).

This can rise to 143F (62C) when the mercury hits 87F (31C).

It’s worth bearing in mind that an egg can fry in five minutes at 131F (55C) while skin destruction can occur in just one minute at 125 (52C).

The reason pavements get so hot is they soak up heat all day and then retain that heat.

Temperature of Surfaces at 2pm

Surface temperatures and their respective surfaces at 2pm.

Studies have shown that some surfaces retain heat far better than others.

In one university experiment, the temperature of six different surfaces was taken at two points in the day on two separate summer’s days.

The results showed that artificial grass came out hottest in all four trials, followed by the material that’s used to make running tracks and then asphalt.

All three surfaces measured upwards 122F at 2pm on both days. This temperature could severely burn a dog’s paws within a matter of minutes.

Brick and concrete came next in the surface temperature league table followed by natural grass. While sand wasn’t included in this experiment, it can get exceedingly hot too.

The fact natural grass was the coolest of the six suggests that owners should choose it to walk their dogs on hot summer’s days (although our strong advice is to exercise dogs before 8am and after 8pm when temperatures are no longer as high).

How to protect paws on hot pavements:

- Follow the seven-second rule and check the surface for heat before you leave the house

- Keep to natural grass

- Walk early in the morning or late in the evening when surfaces are cooler

-Consider a pair of dog booties to help avoid burning paws

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Glaucoma in Dogs: Causes, Signs & Treatment

Disease of the Optic Nerve in Dogs

Glaucoma is a condition in which pressure is placed on the eye, causing inadequate fluid drainage in the eye. If the condition becomes chronic or persists without treatment, it will eventually cause permanent damage to the optic nerve, resulting in blindness.

Glaucoma is common in certain dog breeds that are genetically predisposed, such as samoyeds, cocker Spaniels, poodles, chow chows, and Siberians. Unfortunately, 40% of dogs affected by glaucoma will become blind in the affected eye within the first year, regardless of medical or surgical treatment.

Symptoms and Types of Glaucoma

There are two main types of glaucoma: primary and secondary. Symptoms for sudden primary disease, due to the eye's inability to drain through the filtration angles of the eye, are as follows:

• High pressure within the eye

• Blinking of the eye

• The eyeball may recede back into the head

• Redness of the blood vessels in the whites of eyes

• Cloudy appearance at front of the eye

• Dilated pupil – or pupil does not respond to light

• Vision loss

Long-term, advanced disease:

• Enlargement of the eyeball (buphthalmos)

• Obvious loss of vision

• Advanced degeneration within the eye

Symptoms for secondary glaucoma, or glaucoma due to secondary eye infection(s), include:

• High pressure within the eye

• Redness of the blood vessels in the whites of eyes

• Cloudy appearance at front of the eye

• Inflammatory debris visible in the front of the eye

• Possible constriction of the pupil

• Possible sticking of the iris to either the cornea or the lens

• Possible that the edge of the iris circularly sticks to the lens

In addition, there may be:

• Headaches, with head pressing to relieve feelings of pressure in head

• Loss of appetite

• Change in attitude, less desire to play or interact

Causes

High pressure in the eye occurs when the normal outflow of fluid in the eye is impaired due to a primary eye disease such as the improper development of the eye's filtration angles, or secondary to other eye diseases such as primary lens luxation (slipping of the lens in the eye), inflammation of the tissues of the eye, eye tumor(s), or blood collection in the front of the eye from injury. In dogs, secondary glaucoma is more common than primary glaucoma.

SOURCE: CANNA-PET.COM

SOURCE: CANNA-PET.COM

SOURCE: CANNA-PET.COM

SOURCE: CANNA-PET.COM

SOURCE: CANNA-PET.COM

SOURCE: CANNA-PET.COM

SOURCE: CANNA-PET.COM

SOURCE: CANNA-PET.COM

Diagnosis 

You will need to give a thorough history of your dog's health, onset of symptoms, as far as you have been able to tell, and possible incidents that might have preceded this condition, such as injuries to the eye (even those which you consider minor). During the physical examination, your veterinarian will test the pressure within your dog's  eyes using a tonometer on the surface of the eye. If the disease began suddenly, your veterinarian will refer your dog to a veterinary ophthalmologist for a detailed examination of both eyes, including evaluation of the filtration angles by gonioscopy -- measuring the anterior of the eye. Pressure within the eye can measure as high as 45 to 65 mmHg, making this a very painful condition.

Electroretinography will be also performed by the veterinary ophthalmologist to determine if the eye will remain blind despite treatment. In secondary diseases, X-rays and an ultrasound may show abnormalities within the eye.

Often both eyes are affected, but not always. In cases where only one eye is affected, steps will be taken to protect the unaffected eye from developing a diseased condition.

Treatment

It is helpful to think of treating glaucoma like a major medical emergency. The faster and earlier you address the problem, the least likely your pet is to suffer maximum, sustained damages. The top three goals are to reduce pain, drain excess fluid, and reduce how much aqueous humor the eye produces.

Most treatments are geared toward pain management to help ward off the headaches associated with glaucoma, and in delaying or preventing the disease from happening in the second eye. Your vet may recommend performing a gonioscopy to determine your best shot at saving the remaining eye.

Reduce aqueous humor fluid.

Some treatment options seek to decrease the amount of fluid the eye produces, since draining the eye and keeping it drained can be tough, if not impossible in animals. There are pills and eye drops used for these purposes, and although they are helpful, they aren’t that great as a long-term option, and are ineffective in an emergency. The medications are most useful as a Band-Aid method until surgery of the affected eye is possible. This combination of treatment methods is usually the pet owner’s best chance at saving their dog’s vision.

Reduce stress.

As with humans, stress can be very detrimental to a dog’s health. The immune system cannot do its job and the body cannot fight off oxidative damage if stress levels are high.

Avoid treating a blind eye.

Medical treatment of an eye that’s already blind is not recommended. There’s no point in paying for expensive drugs and therapies to try to recover sight that is impossible to recover. In some cases, it might just be best to remove the blind eye entirely in order to mitigate pain and discomfort. It’s cheaper than the cost of medications and ongoing visits with the vet for eye exams.

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