Possible Causes for Your Cat Vomiting Clear Liquid

Vomiting is not normal in cats, and when your cat vomits clear liquid, it can be a sign of a serious illness. Vomiting itself is what is considered to be a nonspecific symptom. It could be associated with an array of health concerns. Some of these can include things like hairballs, internal obstructions, pancreatitis, eating too quickly, constipation, indigestion, parasitic infections, poisoning, stress, depression, or even anxiety.

Possible Causes for Your Cat Vomiting Clear Liquid

Hairballs

Cats are naturally meticulously clean animals and groom themselves for a large part of their day. As your cat grooms themselves, tiny hook-like structures on their tongue catch loose and dead hair, which is then swallowed. The majority of the hair passes all the way through the digestive tract with no problems, but sometimes the hair stays in the stomach and forms a hairball.

Commonly, cats will vomit up clear liquid prior to a hairball. Although, a cat vomiting up clear liquid with a hairball occasionally can be normal and not a concern, it is important to note that hairballs should not be frequent, painful, or difficult for your cat to pass. Some commercial cat diets and treats are formulated to help prevent formation of hairballs. Adopting a regular brushing schedule and getting your cat comfortable with brushing can also help get rid of any loose fur in your cat's coat that they may otherwise ingest when grooming themselves.

Food and Dietary Changes

When there is a change in your cats feeding schedule, if your cat misses a meal or eats later than normal, your cat may vomit up clear liquid.


In addition, you may have switched your cat’s food too quickly. When changing your cat to a new diet, it is recommended to do it gradually over a one to two-week period gradually decreasing the amount of current cat food while increasing the amount of new cat food.

Your cat may eat too quickly, and this can cause clear vomit or clear vomit with food present. If you cat is a habitual 'scarf and barf' cat or if they have intestinal sensitivities, that may be causing them to vomit up partially digested or undigested food. If your vet has ruled out other medical issues and thinks that what your cat is vomiting up is actually food, they may want you to try a food for sensitive stomachs with your cat. If your cat is still struggling with vomiting food on this special diet, they may then want to put your cat on a strict, hydrolyzed protein diet.

Your vet may also suggest food puzzles for your cat. Food puzzles are a great source of both play and enrichment for your cat. There are more and more manufactured food puzzles available on the market that stimulate both of your cat's predatory and foraging instincts. The added benefit of food puzzles for a cat that chronically vomits their food, though, is that it slows down the chow time so that a cat cannot eat too quickly and then get sick from it.

Indigestion

Just like in people, a cat's stomach produces various gastric juices as well as hydrochloric acid to digest their food. If, however, a cat skips a meal for some reason, or if they are not fed on time, that buildup of juice and acid can irritate the stomach and cause your cat to vomit. Cats with indigestion may vomit yellow foam in addition to white foam. If you and your vet suspect your cat's vomiting is from indigestion, your vet may suggest feeding small, frequent meals at the same time throughout the day so as to alleviate any buildup of stomach acid.

Gastritis

If your cat is one to get into things they shouldn't, it is possible that they have irritated their stomach with something that they have eaten. When this happens, you may see vomiting clear liquid in addition to vomiting blood and/or bile. Your cat may also be exhibiting a decrease in appetite, a depressed attitude, lethargy, or dehydration. Your vet will know just what to do if your cat is vomiting because of gastritis.

Some other causes can include:

  • Parasites

  • Constipation

  • An obstruction of foreign material in the intestinal tract

  • Ingesting a toxin

  • Metabolic disorders such as diabetes, kidney disease, and hyperthyroidism

What Should I Do if My Cat Is Vomiting Clear Liquid?

Some cat owners may describe their cat as 'puke-y' but it should be noted that frequent vomiting is never normal for a cat. Vomiting more than once a week is definitely a sign of issues. If your cat is vomiting clear liquid several times and/or in conjunction with other symptoms such as lack of appetite, weight loss, lethargy, or diarrhea, you should make an appointment with your vet right away. Your vet will want to start with a physical exam, checking your cat's vital signs and palpating your cat's abdomen. After a thorough examination, your vet may also want to run some tests, including blood work and x-rays. Blood work will check your cat's organ function, making sure that there are no signs of liver disease or kidney disease, as well as your cat's red blood cell and platelet levels. An x-ray study will check for any fluid in the abdomen that could potentially be blood and it may also show intestinal gas patterns that could be indicative of a blockage.

Depending on what your doctor finds, your cat may require hospitalization for fluid therapy and supportive care, or they may just need outpatient treatments and oral medications to go home on. If your vet suspects your cat has an intestinal blockage your cat may require surgery to remove whatever the blockage is.


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How to Teach a Rescue Dog to Love Again

Imagine you’re a dog that has been surrendered, and upon waking up, only to find that everything in your world is different. Around you, others are screaming and crying. Now imagine you’re a stray, found on the streets never knowing where your next meal may be or maybe you spent most of your days chained up and unloved. On good days, a stranger comes to visit and take you for a walk. The rest of the time, there is nothing to do but sleep and wait. Then, it all changes again. A new family. A new home. All new smells. It’s no wonder that bonding with rescue dogs is a slow, tedious process that requires patience.

The First Steps to Bonding With a Rescue Dog

Dogs are trusting by nature but that trust has limits. The more a dog is subject to abandonment, the more anxiety-ridden they’re likely to be. While we may not always know the specific circumstances that led a dog to feel unsafe in the world, rebuilding trust is possible.

Give your new dog space

One of the larger mistakes people make with fearful dogs is paying them too much attention too quickly. For most dogs with severe anxiety or trust issues, you are part of the landscape of scary stuff they’ve been thrust into.

The absolute best thing you can do for an emotionally fragile dog is to give them space. Bonding with a rescue dog is all about going slow. Don’t force your dog to sit with you on the couch or sleep with you in the bed. Do offer them a comfortable alternative (like a dog bed) that is theirs alone, somewhere within eyesight but just out of reach.

Let your dog guide your interactions

Instead of approaching your dog to give them attention, let your dog come to you when they’re feeling comfortable.

A few other tips for bonding with a rescue dog at a pace they can handle:

  • Stay away from petting sensitive areas like their head, ears, tail, and paws.

  • Choose to pet areas like your dog’s side or back.

  • Never hover, bend over your dog or attempt to hug them close to your body. These actions can make a frightened dog feel trapped and lead to increased anxiety and even a bite.

  • Never allow someone unfamiliar to approach and pet your dog unless your dog is soliciting attention from them.

Try classical conditioning

If your pet is skittish when you move around, classical conditioning and desensitization techniques can help your pet feel more secure about being in your presence. Your objective is to merely deliver an amazing, delicious treat.

Here’s how to do it:

  1. With a chunk of high-value food (chicken, cheese, hot dogs, etc.) or a yummy chew like a pig’s ear or bully stick, walk towards your dog.

  2. Drop the object close by, then continue walking away.

  3. You can speak to your dog in pleasing, soothing tones, but don’t stop to pet them.

  4. Repeat this daily (or multiple times a day) until you see your dog start to perk up a bit when you approach.

  5. Next time you drop the food, instead of walking away, hang out nearby.

  6. You can talk to your dog in soothing tones but don’t interfere with your dog’s eating. (NEVER take away a food object from a fearful dog.)

  7. Repeat until your dog is able to comfortably eat their treat with you nearby.

Over time, and with repetition, your dog learns that being near you is a positive experience, and they’ll start to relax. A calm dog is more open to bonding with you.

Avoid hand-delivered treats in the beginning

Sure, bonding with a rescue dog involves treats—but it’s unwise to make a fearful dog take food from your hand. Some dogs may be willing to get closer than they’re comfortable with in order to get high-value food, but by pushing them beyond their stress threshold, they’re unlikely to make long-term improvements.

Here’s how to work your way toward hand-fed treats:

  • Instead of giving your dog a treat from your hand, toss it a few feet away from you.

  • Repeat regularly until your dog is comfortable within a few feet of you and is happy to hang out there.

  • Decrease the distance you throw the treat.

  • Watch your dog’s body language to see if they’re able to take the treat from the new location while remaining relaxed. If so, repeat until they’re regularly approaching without signs of anxiety.

  • Continue to shorten the distance slowly until, eventually, you offer the treat from your hand.

  • If your dog darts in to grab the treat then darts away, you will know you are pushing them too fast.

Limit scary experiences on walks

To help a dog feel safe and confident in the world, they shouldn’t be placed in frightening situations. Remember that scary is relative. You may not think a rumbling truck or a busy street is scary, but your dog might.

To give your dog the best chance of building confidence outdoors, begin by walking them in the quietest place you can think of, preferably away from roads. Gradually over time (weeks or months, not days) shift your walks to busier and noisier locations. For example, your next location could be a quiet residential street.

Be sure to walk armed with plenty of high-value treats, which you can give your dog immediately after anything loud or unexpected happens. For example, if a skateboarder zooms by, immediately pull out a handful of treats and deliver them to your dog’s mouth one after another until your hand is empty. If your dog is uncomfortable taking treats from your hand, drop the handful on the ground beneath them.

Use games to build confidence

Bonding with a rescue dog that doesn’t trust the world requires confidence building. Games are a great way to start.

If your dog is uncomfortable being approached or eating food from your hand, try some extremely simple shaping exercises. Shaping is like a game of hot-and-cold where your dog is rewarded for moving closer to the goal.


How to play a shaping game

  • Decide what you want your dog to do. Stick to easy tasks like walking to the dog bed or touching a toy with their nose or paw.

  • Throw your dog a treat each time they look at the destination you’ve chosen for them.

  • Next, throw them a treat for shifting or inching closer to it. If your dog moves away, don’t reward.

  • Finally, when they accomplish the goal, jackpot them by throwing a handful of treats.

Practice your training exercises in short bursts of a few minutes at a time and make sure your dog is successful. If they’re struggling with a cue, they may not be ready for it. Be patient and always end on a win.

Help them make other dog friends

When you’re dealing with a dog with trust issues, it can be easy to forget that they’re still a dog. Many dogs that don’t trust humans are comfortable with their own kind.

Give your pup the opportunity to socialize with other dogs to help relieve stress and build their confidence in different environments. Busy enclosed dog parks aren’t always the best option for a fearful dog, as they can be noisy, chaotic, and overwhelming.


For best results, create opportunities where they can interact with one or two pets at a time, or where they have enough space to encounter other dogs without feeling pressured to interact, like a dog-friendly recreation area.


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Tips For Bringing Home a New Rescue Dog

Bringing home a shelter dog that you adopt may be a rescued stray or a dog that someone has voluntarily surrendered for adoption. Once a stray, a rescued canine is a special animal that needs time and space, patience, and understanding.

The first few days in your home are special and critical for a pet. Your new dog will be confused about where they are and what to expect from you. Setting up some clear structure with your family for your dog will be paramount in making as smooth a transition as possible.

Bringing a pup home, they need more than just a bed and a food bowl to thrive. They also need constant care and attention. While a pup's first night at home may require a lot of work initially, it’s well worth the effort down the road. Establishing good habits in those first weeks will lay the groundwork for a lifetime of happiness for you and your dog. Remember, you have a responsibility to help your pup grow into a happy and healthy dog. Here are some tips to help first-time dog owners get started:

Before You Bring Your Dog Home

  • Determine where your dog will be spending most of their time. Because your new dog will be under a lot of stress with the change of environment (from a shelter or foster home to your house), they may forget any housebreaking (if any) they've learned. Often a kitchen or tiled-space will work best for easy clean-up.

  • If you plan on crate training your dog, be sure to have a crate set up and ready to go for when you bring your new dog home.

  • Dog-proof the area where your dog will spend most of their time during the first few months. This may mean taping loose electrical cords to baseboards; storing household chemicals on high shelves; removing plants, rugs, and breakables; setting up the crate, and installing baby gates.

  • Training your dog will start the first moment you have them. Take time to create a vocabulary list everyone will use when giving your dog directions. This will help prevent confusion and help your dog learn their commands more quickly and easily.

  • Bring an ID tag with your phone number on it with you when you pick up your dog so that they have an extra measure of safety for the ride home and the first few uneasy days. If your pet is microchipped, be sure to register your contact information with the chip’s company, if the rescue or shelter did not already do so.

The First Few Days

  • We know moving is stressful — and your new dog feels the same way! Give them time to acclimate to your home and family before introducing them to strangers. Make sure children know how to approach the dog without overwhelming them.

  • When you pick up your dog, remember to ask what and when they were fed. Replicate that schedule for at least the first few days to avoid gastric distress. If you wish to switch to a different brand, do so over a period of about a week by adding one part new food to three parts of the old for several days; then switch to half new food, half old, and then one part old to three parts new.

  • On the way home, your dog should be safely secured, preferably in a crate. Some dogs find car trips stressful, so having them in a safe place will make the trip home easier for them and you.

  • Once home, take them to their toileting area immediately and spend a good amount of time with them so they will get used to the area and relieve themselves. Even if your dog does relieve themselves during this time, be prepared for accidents. Coming into a new home with new people, new smells and new sounds can throw even the most housebroken dog off-track, so be ready just in case.

  • From there, start your schedule of feeding, toileting, and play/exercise. From Day One, your dog will need family time and brief periods of solitary confinement. Don’t give in and comfort them if they whine when left alone. Instead, give them attention for good behavior, such as chewing on a toy or resting quietly.

  • For the first few days, remain calm and quiet around your dog, limiting too much excitement (such as the dog park or neighborhood children). Not only will this allow your dog to settle in easier, but it will also give you more one-on-one time to get to know them and their likes/dislikes.

  • If your rescue came from another home, objects like leashes, hands, rolled-up newspapers and magazines, feet, chairs, and sticks are just some of the pieces of “training equipment” that may have been used on this dog. Words like “come here” and “lie down” may bring forth a reaction other than the one you expect. Or maybe they led a sheltered life and was never socialized to children or sidewalk activity. This dog may be the product of a never-ending series of scrambled communications and unreal expectations that will require patience on your part.

  • Keep your pup off balconies, elevated porches, and decks. Keep all cleaning supplies, detergents, bleach, and other chemicals and medicines out of the pup's reach, preferably on high shelves. Remove poisonous houseplants, such as amaryllis, mistletoe, holly, or poinsettia, or keep them in hanging baskets up high, where your puppy cannot reach them.

  • Keep toilet lids closed, unplug electrical cords and remove them from the floor, and keep plastic bags and ribbons out of your pup's reach.

In The Following Weeks:

  • People often say they don’t see their dog’s true personality until several weeks after adoption. Your dog may be a bit uneasy at first as they get to know you. Be patient and understanding while also keeping to the schedule you intend to maintain for feeding, walks, etc. This schedule will show your dog what is expected of them as well as what they can expect from you.

  • After discussing it with your veterinarian to ensure your dog has all the necessary vaccines, you may wish to take your dog to group training classes or the dog park. Pay close attention to your dog’s body language to be sure they are having a good time and is not fearful (or a dog park bully).

  • To have a long and happy life together with your dog, stick to the original schedule you created, ensuring your dog always has the food, potty time, and attention they need. You’ll be bonded in no time.

  • If you encounter behavior issues you are unfamiliar with, ask your veterinarian for a trainer recommendation. Select a trainer who uses positive reinforcement techniques to help you and your dog overcome these behavior obstacles.

  • Bring your dog to the veterinarian for regular checkups. Talk to your veterinarian about any signs of illness that you should watch out for during your pup's first few months, especially if they are under a year old.

  • Ensure your dog receives proper nutrition. Just like a child, your dog also needs complete and balanced nutrition to help them grow properly. In fact, the first year of your pet's life is critical in ensuring the proper growth of their bones, teeth, muscles, and fur. As a growing animal, they will require more calories than an adult dog. Speak with your veterinarian for the best feeding schedule and diet and nutrition for your pet. Never feed your dog bones, table scraps, or big snacks in between meals.

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Diabetes Ketoacidosis (DKA) - A Complication of Diabetes in Cats and Dogs

Unfortunately, as veterinarians, we are seeing an increased prevalence of diabetes mellitus in dogs and cats. This is likely due to the growing prevalence of obesity (secondary to inactive lifestyle, a high carbohydrate diet, lack of exercise, etc.). You're probably wondering if you just had a dog or cat diagnosed with diabetes mellitus—what do you do? First, we encourage you to take a look at these articles for an explanation of the disease:

This article will teach you about life-threatening complications that can occur as a result of the disease; specifically, a life-threatening condition called diabetes ketoacidosis (DKA) so that you know how to help prevent it.

What is DKA?

When diabetes goes undiagnosed or difficult to control or regulate, the complication of DKA can occur. DKA develops because the body is so lacking in insulin that the sugar can’t get into the cells — resulting in cell starvation. Cell starvation causes the body to start breaking down fat in an attempt to provide energy (or a fuel source) to the body. Unfortunately, these fat breakdown products, called “ketones,” are also poisonous to the body.

Symptoms of DKA

Clinical signs of DKA include the following:

  • Weakness

  • Not moving (in cats, hanging out by the water bowl)

  • Not eating or complete anorexia

  • Vomiting

  • Excessive thirst and urination (clear, dilute urine)

  • Large urinary clumps in the litter box (anything bigger than a tennis ball is abnormal)

  • Weight loss (most commonly over the back), despite an overweight body condition

  • Obesity

  • Flaky skin coat

  • Excessively dry or oily skin coat

  • Abnormal breath (typically a sweet “ketotic” odor)

  • Diarrhea

In severe cases DKA can also result in more significant signs:

  • Abnormal breathing pattern

  • Jaundice

  • Abdominal pain (sometimes due to the secondary problem of pancreatitis)

  • Tremors or seizures

  • Coma

  • Death

What can cause DKA?

When DKA occurs, it’s often triggered by an underlying medical problem such as an infection or metabolic (organ) problem. Some common problems that we see with DKA include the following:

  • Pancreatitis

  • Urinary tract infection

  • Chronic kidney failure

  • Endocrine diseases (e.g., hyperadrenocorticism [when the body makes too much steroid], or hyperthyroidism [an overactive thyroid gland])

  • Lung disease (such as pneumonia)

  • Heart disease (such as congestive heart failure)

  • Liver disease (such as fatty changes to the liver)

  • Cancer

Diagnosing DKA

While diagnosing DKA is simple, by looking at the blood sugar levels of dogs and cats and by measuring the presence of these fat breakdown products in the urine or blood, treatment can be costly (running between $3-5000). A battery of tests and diagnostics need to be performed, to look for underlying problems listed above, and treatment typically requires aggressive therapy and 24/7 hospitalization.

Treatment of DKA

Treatment, typically, is required for 3-7 days, and includes the following:

  • A special intravenous catheter called a “central line” (placed to aid in frequent blood draws)

  • Aggressive intravenous fluids

  • Electrolyte supplementation and monitoring

  • Blood sugar monitoring

  • A fast acting or ultra fast acting insulin, regular or Lispro, typically given intravenously or in the muscle

  • Blood pressure monitoring

  • Nutritional support (often in the form of a temporary feeding tube)

  • Anti-vomiting or anti-nausea medication

  • Antibiotics

  • Long-term blood sugar monitoring and a transition to a longer-acting insulin

Thankfully, with aggressive supportive care, many patients with DKA do well as long as pet parents are prepared for the long-term commitment (including twice-a-day insulin, frequent veterinary visits to monitor the blood sugar, and the ongoing costs of insulin, syringes, etc.).

Preventing DKA

By following your veterinarian’s guidelines and recommendations you can help regulate and control your pet’s diabetic state better and monitor your pet carefully for clinical signs. For example, if your pet is still excessively thirsty or urinating frequently despite insulin therapy, they are likely poorly controlled and need an adjustment of their insulin dose (of course, never adjust your pet’s insulin or medications without consulting your veterinarian).

When in doubt remember that the sooner you detect a problem in your dog or cat, the less expensive that problem is to treat. If you notice any clinical signs of diabetes mellitus or DKA, seek immediate veterinary attention. Most importantly, blood glucose curves (when a veterinarian measures your pet’s response to their insulin level) often need to be done multiple times per year (especially in the beginning stages of diabetes mellitus).

If you have any questions or concerns, you should always visit or call your veterinarian.

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Can Cats Get Breast Cancer? Learn About Mammary Tumors in Cats

What is a mammary tumor (breast cancer)?

A mammary tumor develops as a result of abnormal replication of the cells that make up the breast tissue. Mammary tumors can be benign (non-cancerous) or malignant (cancerous). These two forms of the disease have different diagnostics, treatments, management, and prognosis. In cats, the vast majority of mammary tumors are malignant.

There are several different types of mammary tumors, with carcinomas being the most common. Carcinomas often arise from the tubules of the mammary glands, or other cells found in the mammary chain.

There are several other kinds of cancers that can affect the mammary glands, including osteosarcomas.

What causes this cancer?

The exact causes for the development of mammary tumors in cats are not fully understood. However, exposure to the female reproductive hormones, estrogen and progesterone, increases the risk for mammary cancers in cats. It is hypothesized that under the influence of hormones, the cells of the mammary gland enlarge, progress to a pre-cancerous state, and continue to grow until they transform into a carcinoma.

The incidence of these tumors is related to hormone status, specifically whether a cat is intact or has had an ovariohysterectomy (i.e., has been spayed). Sexually intact cats have a 7-fold increased risk for mammary tumors compared to spayed cats. Early spaying helps to prevent the development of these tumors. Cats that are spayed before 6 months of age have only a 9% percent risk of developing mammary tumors, whereas the risk increases to 14% in cats spayed between 7 and 12 months. Male cats rarely develop mammary tumors.

Age and breed also play a role in tumor development. Mammary cancers are seen mainly in middle-aged to older cats (around 10 years of age). Siamese cats appear to be predisposed and are typically younger when diagnosed. Obesity may play a role in tumor development as well.

What are the signs that my cat has this type of tumor?

The most common clinical sign of a mammary tumor is one (or more) palpable masses (nodules) underneath the skin of the abdomen. They may be next to or within the nipple and follow along the mammary chain. The size of the mass(es) and their appearance may vary, but they are usually firm and nodular. Occasionally the skin over the mass may ulcerate (open) and bleed, and the affected area may feel warm to the touch and become painful. Your cat may tend to lick and groom the area excessively, and a strong odor can result as the exposed tissue becomes infected.

If the tumor has metastasized (spread to other areas of the body), other signs may become evident. Your cat may generally feel unwell, eat less, become lethargic, and lose weight. If the lungs are involved, your cat may have problems breathing or develop a cough.

Multiple tumors are common at the time of diagnosis.

How is this type of tumor diagnosed?

These tumors are typically found as either singular or multiple nodules along your cat’s abdomen during a physical exam. Other procedures are then performed to determine the type of tumor and whether it is benign or malignant.

A common procedure to diagnose this tumor is a fine needle aspiration (FNA). FNA involves taking a small needle with a syringe and suctioning a sample of cells directly from the tumor and placing them on a microscope slide. A veterinary pathologist then examines the slide under a microscope.

In some cases, results from FNA may not be entirely clear and removal of the entire tumor may be necessary. Pieces of the tumor are then examined by a veterinary pathologist under a microscope. This is called histopathology. Histopathology is not only helpful to make a diagnosis but can indicate whether it is benign or malignant, and therefore how the tumor is likely to behave.

Given the risk of metastasis (spread to other areas of the body) with malignant mammary tumors, your veterinarian may also recommend staging (searching for potential spread to other locations in the body). This may include bloodwork, urinalysis, X-rays of the lungs, and possibly an abdominal ultrasound. Lymph nodes associated with the mammary glands may be sampled by FNA even if they seem normal.

How does this cancer typically progress?

The way this cancer progresses is entirely dependent on the type and size of the tumor(s), and whether metastasis has occurred. Larger tumors (greater than 2 cm) and those with evidence of spread have a poor prognosis. If the histopathology report shows tumor cells invading the local blood vessels, this also carries a poor prognosis. Detecting and treating these tumors when they are small and prior to metastasis provides your cat with the best chance of long-term control. Tumors smaller than 2 cm carry the best prognosis.

What are the treatments for this type of tumor?

Surgery is by far the best treatment for cats with mammary tumors. Depending on whether there is a single mass present, or several masses a single chain mastectomy (removal of one side of the breast tissue) or double chain mastectomy (removal of both sides, with each mastectomy performed at a different time) will be performed. Depending on the tumor size and other factors, chemotherapy is typically pursued afterward, especially given the high metastatic rate in these tumors.


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