diarrhea

Get to Know Your Dog’s Digestive System

A healthy digestive system is essential to your dog’s well-being. The digestive system serves many important functions: it takes in food, absorbs nutrients, maintains fluid and electrolyte balance, and gets rid of waste.

It also covers a lot of area. The digestive tract includes the oral cavity (salivary glands, tongue, teeth), esophagus, stomach, small and large intestine, liver, pancreas, rectum, and anus.

The canine digestive system isn’t the most glamorous topic, but understanding how it works puts you in a better position to determine if your dog is sick and needs to be seen by a vet. It can also guide you in making decisions that will enhance their health.

Here are 7 interesting facts about your dog's gastrointestinal tract and health!

1. Dogs Get Heartburn, Too

Dogs can get indigestion and heartburn just like humans.

In the fasted state, stomach acids are very similar in people and dogs. After eating, however, dogs produce more acid than we do.

Our similarities mean that dogs and people benefit from the same antacids. But before giving your dog an over-the-counter antacid, talk to your veterinarian. You will want to be sure you aren’t risking any potential drug interactions or side effects.

Veterinarians can also provide you with important usage guidance for antacids to ensure you are not putting your pet’s health at risk.

But more stomach acid doesn’t translate to letting your dog eat potentially contaminated foods. Dogs are no less sensitive to food poisoning (bacterial contamination) than are people. The practice of feeding raw meat to dogs carries a demonstrated risk of food poisoning.

2. Food Moves Through a Dog's GI Tract Three Times as Fast

Dogs have a small intestine that occupies about 25% of the total gastrointestinal volume, which is consistent with other omnivores, including people. The small intestine of a cat, a true carnivore, occupies only 15%.

On average, food moves through the canine stomach a bit slower than ours, but food movement through the intestines is a little faster. Gastrointestinal transit time is six to eight hours for dogs, while in people it’s between 20 and 30 hours.

3. Dogs Can’t Chew Side to Side

You’ve probably noticed that your dog can’t chew side to side. The dog’s jaw only allows for up and down motion when chewing, whereas people have side-to-side movement that allows more grinding of food.

The difference probably has to do with our historical diets. The wolf-like ancestors of dogs ate mostly meat that could be easily ripped and swallowed, but people also relied on gathering or farming plant material that required more chewing.

4. Most Dogs Can Digest and Absorb Carbs

But modern dogs are considered omnivores, just like we are. They originally ate a carnivorous diet in the wild, but since they have been domesticated, adaptions have been made that allow them to digest and utilize plant-based nutrients.

True carnivores, like cats, have a higher nutritional requirement for taurine, arachidonic acid and certain vitamins, which are available in animal fat and protein sources.

Omnivores don’t have a higher requirement for these and create their own arachidonic acid from vegetable oils. Most normal dogs have no difficulty digesting and absorbing carbohydrates. So, there is no benefit to feeding grain-free diets to normal dogs.

5. Cholesterol Doesn’t Impact a Dog’s Health

Your doctor may advise you to lower your cholesterol level, but you won’t hear the same concerns echoed at the vet’s office. Cholesterol does not have the same effect on your dog’s heart, and their digestive systems are designed to accommodate animal fat.

Dogs also don’t have the same issues with colon cancer, so the idea that eating foods high in soluble fiber or low in saturated or trans-fats will provide any health benefit is really unknown at this point.

Vets say one of the keys to health is keeping your dog at a healthy weight. Obesity is related to exacerbation of many health problems in dogs and is a vet’s number one battle. If it’s any one thing that we can do, it’s talk to our vets about how to curb obesity.

6. Diarrhea and Vomiting May Be Bigger Problems Than You Thought

Gastrointestinal diseases account for about 10% of veterinary visits. Diarrhea is one of the most frequent clinical signs. Abnormal stool may also be a first symptom of a more systemic disease process, such as kidney, liver, and some endocrine disorders.

Vomiting is also a common symptom. An acute bout may resolve itself over a day or two—vets will often recommend a short, 12-hour period of fasting to “rest” the GI tract, followed by a bland diet of chicken and rice. But when the clinical signs continue or are especially severe, testing is often recommended to attempt to find out what may be causing the distress.

Imbalances with other organs, such as the kidneys, can also cause gastrointestinal signs. It is important to see your vet to determine the best treatment for your dog.

7. Your Dog’s Poop Tells a Lot About Their Health

You can learn a lot about your dog’s health by studying her poop (an unpleasant, but necessary task).

There are a variety of causes for abnormal stool. Most episodes of acute onset diarrhea are typically self-limiting within a few days, as dietary indiscretions are a frequent cause.

Parasites, bacteria, and viruses may also cause diarrhea. Depending on the underlying cause, the animal may or may not need appropriate treatment for the infectious agent. If diarrhea persists for several days, and/or there is blood in the stool, the animal should be examined by a veterinarian who can determine the most appropriate course of treatment.

On the other hand, if your dog isn’t pooping and is straining to defecate, they may be constipated, which if prolonged, may cause serious health issues.

One important takeaway is to contact your vet if you notice anything suspicious. Even short episodes of diarrhea or constipation that occur periodically, especially in combination with other signs, like weight loss and loss of appetite, may indicate a more complicated disease process.

Another key point is that you regularly monitor your dog’s poop habits. It is important for the owner to daily monitor how often the animal defecates and the consistency of the stool. There is some variation between animals and also variation from day-to-day, with some animals having consistently softer stools or harder stools than others. But generally, with time, the owners should be able to establish what’s normal for their animal.


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Let's talk about cat poop!

Healthy Poop in Cats

How often should a cat 'go'?

The general rule of thumb is that a cat should poop at least once a day. However, the frequency of your cat's bowel movements is affected by multiple factors including the age (i.e. kittens defecate more often than adults), diet, exercise, and health status (i.e. IBD, hyperthyroidism, parasites, CKD).

Because of this, the exact frequency of the bowel movement will be individual, and you should monitor for its fluctuations instead. If your cat's bowel movements start to differ from the normal frequency for longer than a day or two, it is advisable to pay a visit to the vet and resolve the cause of the change.

What does healthy poop look like?

Healthy cat poop should be deep brown in color (but not too dark nor black) and malleable in consistency (similar to modeling clay; it should be firm enough to leave little to no residue on the ground when picked up, yet pliable and not too hard). Poop should be passed in one piece or a few smaller pieces of somewhat cylindrical shape and segmented appearance. The odor shouldn't be too foul, although this can be variable.

Unhealthy Poop in Cats

The key signs to look out for in your cat's poop are the consistency, shape and color. The stool's consistency is directly influenced by the amount of moisture in it, which gives you an insight into the colonic health. The colon (or the large intestine) reabsorbs the remaining water and other key nutrients from the indigestible material, thus solidifying this material into the firm stool. The consistency of the stool can be descriptively scored to help you recognize if your cat's stool is healthy.

A comprehensive fecal scoring guide was described by Purina. According to Purina's guide, the consistency of the healthy stool can be scored on the scale from 1 to 7. The healthy stool (as described above) is scored with 2, while the stool that is too hard and dry is scored with 1. Scores from 3 to 7 are reserved for moist, mushy or liquid stools.

Hard stool (score 1) is typically a sign of constipation, which can be associated with dehydration, colon obstruction or certain metabolic and neurological conditions. Thus, if you notice that your cat is passing poop that is too hard in consistency, you should pay a visit to the vet and address the issue. The hard poop is passed in smaller, more spherical pellets which leave no residue on the ground, and the passing itself requires more effort.

Soft, mushy or liquid stools (scores 3-7) can be a sign of bacterial infections, intestinal parasites, or food intolerance. If your cat's poop is moist on the surface, thus leaving residue on the ground, but retains the shape and form when picked up, then its consistency can be scored with 3. This poop has little to no visible segmentation, but is not considered to be an alarming sign.

If the poop is so moist that it feels saggy and it loses form when picked up (but does retain a logged shape when passed), then the consistency can be scored with 4. Furthermore, if the stool is passed in a pile rather than the logs, then it is scored with 5. If your cat passes liquid stool with texture but no shape, then the consistency is scored with 6. Liquid stool without any texture nor shape is scored with 7.

Soft or fluid stool (as described by the scores 4-7), accompanied by a more frequent bowel movement, are referred to as diarrhea. While the causes for diarrhea are variable and often multi-factorial, this state is considered to be an important, sign of underlying problems and is a legitimate reason to consult with your vet. Sometimes, diarrhea can be caused by stress (i.e. moving to a new environment or bringing in a new pet), or food allergies and intolerance.

Other times, however, diarrhea can be a symptom of a disease, a bacterial infection, or even intestinal parasites. If your cat is suffering from diarrhea, make sure to closely monitor the frequency on your cat's bowel movement, so you can report it to your veterinarian. Keep an eye on other signs of disease and injury and the changes in your cat's behavior. This will be key for the diagnosis of the underlying cause.

Contact your veterinarian ASAP after spotting the symptoms, especially if diarrhea persists for more than two days and is accompanied by lack of appetite, lethargy, or vomiting. The veterinarian will diagnose the underlying cause and help you design a special recovery diet for your cat until it recovers.

The stool is a direct insight into its colonic health. It can help you recognize if your cat is eating the right diet and drinking enough water or if it's suffering from certain health problems. So, the next time you clean the litter box, make sure to quickly inspect if your cat's poop is healthy! A healthy cat is a happy cat.


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Diabetes Ketoacidosis (DKA) - A Complication of Diabetes in Cats and Dogs

Unfortunately, as veterinarians, we are seeing an increased prevalence of diabetes mellitus in dogs and cats. This is likely due to the growing prevalence of obesity (secondary to inactive lifestyle, a high carbohydrate diet, lack of exercise, etc.). You're probably wondering if you just had a dog or cat diagnosed with diabetes mellitus—what do you do? First, we encourage you to take a look at these articles for an explanation of the disease:

This article will teach you about life-threatening complications that can occur as a result of the disease; specifically, a life-threatening condition called diabetes ketoacidosis (DKA) so that you know how to help prevent it.

What is DKA?

When diabetes goes undiagnosed or difficult to control or regulate, the complication of DKA can occur. DKA develops because the body is so lacking in insulin that the sugar can’t get into the cells — resulting in cell starvation. Cell starvation causes the body to start breaking down fat in an attempt to provide energy (or a fuel source) to the body. Unfortunately, these fat breakdown products, called “ketones,” are also poisonous to the body.

Symptoms of DKA

Clinical signs of DKA include the following:

  • Weakness

  • Not moving (in cats, hanging out by the water bowl)

  • Not eating or complete anorexia

  • Vomiting

  • Excessive thirst and urination (clear, dilute urine)

  • Large urinary clumps in the litter box (anything bigger than a tennis ball is abnormal)

  • Weight loss (most commonly over the back), despite an overweight body condition

  • Obesity

  • Flaky skin coat

  • Excessively dry or oily skin coat

  • Abnormal breath (typically a sweet “ketotic” odor)

  • Diarrhea

In severe cases DKA can also result in more significant signs:

  • Abnormal breathing pattern

  • Jaundice

  • Abdominal pain (sometimes due to the secondary problem of pancreatitis)

  • Tremors or seizures

  • Coma

  • Death

What can cause DKA?

When DKA occurs, it’s often triggered by an underlying medical problem such as an infection or metabolic (organ) problem. Some common problems that we see with DKA include the following:

  • Pancreatitis

  • Urinary tract infection

  • Chronic kidney failure

  • Endocrine diseases (e.g., hyperadrenocorticism [when the body makes too much steroid], or hyperthyroidism [an overactive thyroid gland])

  • Lung disease (such as pneumonia)

  • Heart disease (such as congestive heart failure)

  • Liver disease (such as fatty changes to the liver)

  • Cancer

Diagnosing DKA

While diagnosing DKA is simple, by looking at the blood sugar levels of dogs and cats and by measuring the presence of these fat breakdown products in the urine or blood, treatment can be costly (running between $3-5000). A battery of tests and diagnostics need to be performed, to look for underlying problems listed above, and treatment typically requires aggressive therapy and 24/7 hospitalization.

Treatment of DKA

Treatment, typically, is required for 3-7 days, and includes the following:

  • A special intravenous catheter called a “central line” (placed to aid in frequent blood draws)

  • Aggressive intravenous fluids

  • Electrolyte supplementation and monitoring

  • Blood sugar monitoring

  • A fast acting or ultra fast acting insulin, regular or Lispro, typically given intravenously or in the muscle

  • Blood pressure monitoring

  • Nutritional support (often in the form of a temporary feeding tube)

  • Anti-vomiting or anti-nausea medication

  • Antibiotics

  • Long-term blood sugar monitoring and a transition to a longer-acting insulin

Thankfully, with aggressive supportive care, many patients with DKA do well as long as pet parents are prepared for the long-term commitment (including twice-a-day insulin, frequent veterinary visits to monitor the blood sugar, and the ongoing costs of insulin, syringes, etc.).

Preventing DKA

By following your veterinarian’s guidelines and recommendations you can help regulate and control your pet’s diabetic state better and monitor your pet carefully for clinical signs. For example, if your pet is still excessively thirsty or urinating frequently despite insulin therapy, they are likely poorly controlled and need an adjustment of their insulin dose (of course, never adjust your pet’s insulin or medications without consulting your veterinarian).

When in doubt remember that the sooner you detect a problem in your dog or cat, the less expensive that problem is to treat. If you notice any clinical signs of diabetes mellitus or DKA, seek immediate veterinary attention. Most importantly, blood glucose curves (when a veterinarian measures your pet’s response to their insulin level) often need to be done multiple times per year (especially in the beginning stages of diabetes mellitus).

If you have any questions or concerns, you should always visit or call your veterinarian.

Related reading:


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Why You Should Routinely Clean Your Pet’s Food and Water Bowls

Did you know your pet's food and water bowls are a hot spot of risk? Dirty food and water bowls can lead to parasites, affecting your pets and household. In the context of hygiene, pet food bowls are definitely an important part of your cleaning routine to be meticulous about.

We will cover a variety of things:

Good Hygiene & Safety Measures

4 Ways Your Dog’s Water Can Make Them Sick

Determining the right bowls for your pet

Where Do the Bugs Come From?

Zoonotic diseases are diseases that normally infect an animal, but poses a risk to people.

The most common zoonoses with regard to food and water bowls are salmonella, campylobacter, and worms.

These bugs have different mechanisms of causing infection, but they can all be shed into the environment through feces and travel indoors on the pet’s paws or coat.

When your pet licks their fur and then eats from a bowl, this can spread infection onto an object you touch. When you pick up the bowl, you run the risk of getting that same bug on your hands.

Also, with salmonella, the food itself may contain bacteria, with raw meat and eggs posing a special risk. We normally rely on thorough cooking to kill salmonella, so feeding a raw diet to your pet increases the risk.

Food Hygiene

Knowing raw meat could contain salmonella should make you think twice about where you store it.

It should be refrigerated (below 40° F) to slow down the growth of contaminating bacteria. Avoid storing raw meat or any pet food immediately beside human food. Make sure it’s securely wrapped and put in a different section of the fridge whenever possible.

The longer food sits in the open at room temperature, the greater the chance of bacterial contamination and multiplication. With this in mind, serve only the portion your pet can eat in one go so that food isn’t left sitting around. To streamline this and avoid the risks, buy packs of moist food in smaller sizes so you can throw unopened food away rather than store open sachets for days.

Related: Salmonella Infection in Pets & People and Zoonotic Diseases

What’s the Safest Way to Wash Bowls?

Wash them every day: Rinse them under running water and either hand-wash them in hot soapy water or put them on the top rack of the dishwasher (so the dishwasher’s heat doesn’t melt plastic dishes).

When hand-washing, do the pet’s dishes last, using a separate sponge or scourer kept just for the pet’s things. Make the water as hot as you can stand without burning yourself and use liquid or detergent soap. Rinse them well — your pets won’t enjoy a soapy aftertaste, and there’s a slim chance it could make them ill.

Fresh drinking water must be available for your pet at all times, so have at least 2 sets of everything so you have one bowl that’s clean and full of water for your pet while you are cleaning the other one.

Other Safety Measures

Always keep separate utensils for the pet’s food, such as serving spoons, forks, or scoops. Never use the pet’s things (toys, bowls, etc.) as a scoop.

Although some pets have nasty tummy upsets as a result of salmonella and campylobacter—not all do. Some pets are carriers, meaning the bug is in their system—they’re not ill, but they excrete it in their waste. Some of those bacteria (and also worm eggs) get onto the pet’s coat and then onto your hands when you stroke them. Delightful imagery, right? Wash! Your! Hands!


4 Ways Your Dog’s Water Can Make Them Sick

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Your dog’s water bowl is the 3rd most germ-laden place in the house!

We all know clean and fresh water is vital for good health. With this in mind, you probably top up the bowl every time it goes down.

But as it happens, this isn’t sufficient to ensure good health. Merely topping up the water level does nothing to control harmful bacteria or even toxins that can be lurking in the water. Not only are these bugs unpleasant, but also they can cause illness in people, especially those with weak immune systems. So what bugs could be lurking in your pet's water bowl? Surprisingly, quite a few!

1. Giardia

This single-celled parasite may be better known to you as “traveler’s diarrhea.” It can infect people too—not just your pets.

Giardia is shed in feces inside a hardy oocyst. The latter is tough and can survive for long periods of time in warm, humid conditions, and thrives in water.

When a dog drinks infected water, the parasite passes into its gut. Some dogs show no symptoms, but others can develop sickness and weight loss in addition to diarrhea.

A diagnosis is made by examining a fecal sample under a microscope. Most cases respond well to 3-10 days of medication tailored to your pet.

Related: How do pets and people become infected with Giardia?

2. Cryptosporidium

Cryptosporidium is similar to giardia but a whole lot tougher. It’s so tough that it can survive chlorine treatment. Similar to giardia, oocysts are passed in feces that, if they get into the water, are a source of infection for animals and birds.

  • Your vet will prepare a treatment of fenbendazole or metronidazole to kill the parasite in the gut.

  • Bathe and shampoo the dog on the last day of treatment to wash away any oocysts clinging to the coat. Not doing so risks reinfection should the dog lick their fur.

Related: What Can I Catch From My Dog?

3. Leptospirosis

Leptospirosis is a particularly nasty infection with the potential to kill. It’s also a devious infection because signs can range from mild stomach upsets that last for weeks to months to an acute liver and kidney failure that are fatal in hours.

Other symptoms include:

  • Fever

  • Muscle weakness

  • Blood in the urine

  • Loss of appetite

  • Vomiting

  • Diarrhea

  • Collapse due to organ failure

Leptospirosis can be spread by rat urine and especially loves water sources such as standing water, puddles, and birdbaths. The unpredictable nature of leptospirosis means prevention is the best policy.

Luckily, there are vaccines available for your dog. If you live in a risk area for lepto, then your vet will advise giving the vaccine. A word of caution, though: The vaccine must be given yearly, as immunity is often gone completely 12 months after the previous dose.

Humans, however, don’t yet have a vaccine. Did you know pets can pass lepto to people? If your dog shows similar symptoms to those above and you feel unwell, see your physician as a matter of urgency.

Related: You and Your Pet Are at Risk For Leptospirosis

4. Blue-Green Algae

You may be aware that dogs shouldn’t swim in water with an obvious algal bloom—but do you know why?

Cyanobacteria, also known as blue-green algae, are a toxin-producing form of bacteria. This toxin can affect any mammal (yes, including people), causing nerve and liver damage.

Signs of toxicity include:

  • Weakness

  • Muscle tremors

  • Drooling

  • Vomiting

  • Diarrhea

  • Breathing difficulties

  • Collapse and death

There is no antidote to blue-green algae poisoning. Treatment includes rinsing out the stomach to remove contamination and supportive care with intravenous fluids.

So don’t let your dog swim in dirty water or drink from containers of “old” water — give them the fresh stuff.

Related: How Red Tide Affects Your Pet


Biofilms on Your Pet’s Water Bowl Are Bad

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Spot the biofilm in your pet’s water bowl.

Does your dog or cat have a stainless steel drinking bowl? Next time you rinse the bowl under the tap, look for that misty, smoky layer covering the metal.

If you can’t see it, try wiping your finger across the wet metal surface. If your fingertip leaves a clean streak in its path, then you’re looking at a biofilm.

The definition of a biofilm is: “A thin but robust layer of mucilage adhering to a solid surface and containing a community of bacteria and other microorganisms.” So, basically a thin layer of stickiness rich in bacteria that coats a surface. Yum!
You will have experienced a biofilm for yourself the last time you skipped brushing your teeth. Do you know that unpleasant stickiness that coated your teeth? Well, this is a biofilm made up of mucin, which is a mucous-like glue and bacteria combination.

When water comes into contact with a biofilm, it then becomes a weak bacterial soup. When the pet drinks that water, it’s tantamount to challenging their immune system to a duel. If the dog is very young, elderly, or on immune-suppressive drugs, then there’s a risk of them becoming ill.


Ditch The Plastic!

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Plastic is riddled with risks.

Plastic bowls have more than their fair share of problems when it comes to drinking water.

The plastic surface is easily scratched, which provides inviting nooks and crannies for bugs to hide in.

But more than this, plastic bowls are made of chemicals. One in particular, p-benzyl hydroquinone, inhibits the production of melanin (dark pigment).

It’s melanin that gives a black, leathery nose its rich, deep color. When a nose has regular contact with p-benzyl hydroquinone, such as when the dog drinks, it can cause depigmentation. This can lead to a black nose turning mottled or patchy-looking.

Just think—if this substance can do this to the outside of the body, what’s it doing to the inside?

We know that BPA (a chemical that hardens plastic) can interfere with the production of natural hormones in the body. In people, BPAs are linked to diabetes, impaired brain function, and cancer. When you think about how small dogs and cats are compared to people, the dose of BPA they get must be relatively higher.



Micro-Cracks Lurk in Ceramic Bowls

Surely, a good, heavy-duty ceramic bowl is better, right? Yes and no.

Ceramic bowls aren’t regulated in terms of what goes into making them. There is concern that some originating from China contain lead. Lead is a toxic substance that causes destruction of the red blood cells and nerve damage and is generally a substance best avoided.

In addition, the glaze on a ceramic bowl is subject to microfractures. This is called “crazing” within the glaze and can be seen on a microscopic level.

Scientists investigating biofilms found them to be just as bad on ceramic bowls as plastic. They suspect this ultra-fine crazing somehow provides “grip” for the microfilm to stick to.


Stainless Steel Is Best

The hands-down winner when it comes to drinking bowls is stainless steel. However, this is only if they are washed regularly, preferably on a daily basis.

Even a stainless steel bowl builds up a biofilm if it’s not washed properly. Get into the habit of washing your dog’s water bowl daily, preferably with hot, soapy water or by putting it through the dishwasher.

Don’t be tempted to merely top up the water level— this is feeding the bacterial soup. For optimal health for your pets (and family) choose stainless steel and empty it out daily, wash it with hot, soapy water, rinse and fill with fresh water.


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Why is my dog scooting their butt on the carpet?

Why is my dog scooting their butt on the carpet?

It could be an anal sac disorder.

Dogs have anal sacs on either side of the anus that fill with fluid produced by the anal glands. This fluid is a scent marker that’s useful for communicating with other dogs, such as to delineate territory.

Anal sac disorders involve impaction of anal sac fluid, inflammation of the sac(s), and abscess of the sac(s), which can lead to a dog having a ruptured anal gland. Impaction is the most common disorder of the anal glands. Small breed dogs like Toy Poodles, Shih Tzus, and Chihuahuas are more predisposed than other breeds.

Symptoms and Types

  • Dog is scooting

  • Straining to defecate

  • Itching/Scratching

  • Tail chasing

  • Discharge from the anal glands

  • Licking and biting around the anus

Causes

  • Conformation (body shape)

  • Allergies

  • Chronically soft feces

  • Recent bout of diarrhea

  • Constipation

  • Excessive glandular secretions

  • Poor anal muscle tone

  • Anal gland tumor

Diagnosis

Your veterinarian will conduct a complete physical exam on your dog, taking into account the background history of symptoms and possible incidents that might have precipitated this condition.


You will need to give a thorough history of your dog's health, the onset of symptoms, and possible incidents that might have led to this condition. Your veterinarian may order a fecal test, blood count and chemical profile, and a urinalysis to rule out other causes of disease.


The anal sacs are considered enlarged if they are easily palpable during the physical exam. The normal clear or pale yellow-brown secretion will have turned to a thick, pasty brown fluid if the anal glands have been impacted. Abscessed anal sacs will have a red-brown exudate, and show signs of swelling and redness. The anal sacs may also be clearly ruptured.

Your veterinarian will try to gently empty your dog’s anal sacs. Based on the consistency and color of the material, and the difficultly involved in expressing it, your veterinarian will choose a treatment.

Treatment

If the anal sacs were full, but the material was normal and easily cleaned, your veterinarian may discuss a diet change or supplements. Some anal gland issues are responsive to added fiber or different types of dog food. If there is evidence of infection, your veterinarian will prescribe an antibiotic.

Abscessed anal sacs will be opened to the exterior near the anus in order to allow drainage. The anal sacs will then be cleaned and flushed, and prescription antibiotics will be infused into them.

If your dog is suffering from chronic anal sac infection, the anal sacs may need to be surgically removed. However, if your dog is suffering from severe fistulation (abnormal openings in the anal sacs), it may benefit from oral cyclosporine therapy.

During treatment, your veterinarian may recommend a diet or supplements to loosen the consistency of the feces. This may make it less irritating to defecate so that your dog does not develop constipation.


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