Dog Biting and Prevention Training

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Dog bites pose a serious health risk to our communities and society. More than 4.5 million people are bitten by dogs each year in the United States, and more than 800,000 receive medical attention for dog bites, according to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control (CDC). At least half of those bitten are children. Here are more dog bite facts:

  • Almost 1 in 5 people bitten by dogs require medical attention.

  • Children are the most common victims of dog bites and are far more likely to be severely injured.

  • Most dog bites affecting young children occur during everyday activities and while interacting with familiar dogs.

Any dog can bite: big or small, male or female, young or old. Even the cuddliest, fuzziest, sweetest pet can bite if provoked. Remember, it is not a dog's breed that determines whether it will bite, but rather the dog's individual history and behavior.

Why do dogs bite?

Dogs bite for a variety of reasons, but most commonly as a reaction to something. If the dog finds itself in a stressful situation, it may bite to defend itself or its territory. Dogs can bite because they are scared or have been startled. They can bite because they feel threatened. They can bite to protect something that is valuable to them, like their puppies, their food or a toy.

Dogs might bite because they aren't feeling well. They could be sick or sore due to injury or illness and might want to be left alone. Dogs also might nip and bite during play. Even though nipping during play might be fun for the dog, it can be dangerous for people. It's a good idea to avoid wrestling or playing tug-of-war with your dog. These types of activities can make your dog overly excited, which may lead to a nip or a bite.

Most dog bites are preventable, and there are many things you can do at home and within your community to help prevent them.

What you can do to prevent dog bites


Socialization

Socialization is a good way to help prevent your dog from biting. Socializing your pet helps your dog feel at ease in different situations. By introducing your dog to people and other animals while it's a puppy, it feels more comfortable in different situations as it gets older. It's also important to use a leash in public to make sure that you are able to control your dog.


Responsible Pet Ownership

Responsible pet ownership builds a solid foundation for dog bite prevention. The basics of responsible dog ownership that can help reduce the risk of dog bites include carefully selecting the dog that's right for your family, proper training, regular exercise, and neutering or spaying your pet.


Education

Educate yourself and your children about how—or whether—to approach a dog.


Avoid Risky Situations

It's important to know how to avoid escalating risky situations and to understand when you should and should not interact with dogs.

You should avoid petting a dog in these scenarios:

  • If the dog is not with its owner

  • If the dog is with its owner but the owner does not give permission to pet the dog

  • If the dog is on the other side of a fence—​don't reach through or over a fence to pet a dog

  • If a dog is sleeping or eating

  • If a dog is sick or injured

  • If a dog is resting with her puppies or seems very protective of her puppies and anxious about your presence

  • If a dog is playing with a toy

  • If a dog is growling or barking

  • If a dog appears to be hiding or seeking time alone

Pay Attention to Body Language

Reading a dog's body language also can be helpful. Just like people, dogs rely on body gestures, postures, and vocalizations to express themselves and communicate. While we can't always read a dog's body language accurately, it can give us helpful clues as to whether a dog is feeling stressed, frightened, or threatened.


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How to Communicate with a Deaf Dog

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Do you own a deaf dog? Have you ever had the opportunity to work with a deaf dog?

Different strengths, different senses, different strategies

Although all dogs are acutely aware of body language, deaf dogs are even more keenly observant of body language and gestures.

While training relies on verbal (often not entirely effectual) communication quite frequently, that method obviously does not suffice for a deaf dog. Deaf dogs require families to focus on training in a different way; a way that can certainly be used with all dogs, but is essential for those with hearing loss. But, how do you begin to work with a deaf dog when the default or “go-to” form of communication is verbal?

Owners and trainers “speak” to dogs, teaching them to comprehend intent and meaning. With a deaf dog, the verbal avenue is not an option. Communication needs to focus on the visual sense instead. What is most important is to be careful and deliberate with hand, face, and body movements. Even with this change in emphasis from verbal to visual, if you have trained an animal with an auditory or verbal marker, the shift in training is not all that significant once you get the hang of it.

Bridging the communication gap

Consider a "hand flash" approach with your deaf dog in training. A hand flash is where all fingers start together in a fist, then the fist releases to an open palm hand with all fingers out straight, followed by a return to the original fisted position. Others choose to use a “thumbs up” gesture for a visual marker. As with any marker, we pair the marker with a reinforcer consistently so that it becomes a conditioned reinforcer.

Step one is teaching your dog that this hand flash means good things! Just as a trainer may choose to “load the clicker” a few times in order to create the association that the marker equals something reinforcing, follow the same process with the visual marker. To start, a hand flash is immediately followed by a treat delivered with the other hand. This pattern is repeated a series of times until you are certain your dog has realized that the hand flash communicated that your dog has earned access to something that they found reinforcing.

The next step is to watch for something that your dog did that you like. For example, when they sit, mark that behavior with a visual hand flash marker and then reinforce the behavior. With a deaf dog, one of the most helpful behaviors, and one to work on first, is to mark and reinforce heavily for eye contact.

Attention! Atten-tion!

Getting a deaf dog’s attention is another consideration, as it is not possible to call out to your pup. Fostering a “check-in” behavior is essential. Each and every time that your dog looks at you, you should mark and reinforce this behavior. Sometimes you can get your deaf dog’s attention via vibrations. Tapping or stomping on the floor may create a vibration large enough to attract your dog’s attention. Once your dog looks at you, mark and reinforce that attention. In addition, waving hands or arms at a distance can gain your dog’s interest. Again, once your dog looks in your direction, mark and reinforce that attention.

Another option is if it’s dark or at dusk is to flick the lights off and on to draw your dog’s focus back to you. Some people use a small flashlight, but remember never to shine the light directly into your dog’s eyes. It is not advisable to use a laser pointer. Use the flashlight like a “clicker” or a special signal and turn it on/off quickly to mark a behavior. Remember that every time you mark you will want to follow up with something that your dog finds reinforcing. The marker is like a “promise” of access earned to something reinforcing, so be sure to keep your promise by providing that access after each marker.

Another helpful behavior to train with a deaf dog is a shoulder tap that means “look at me.” Tap your dog on the shoulder and then pop something yummy (just a tiny piece) in their mouth. Repeat this pattern often, and in every room of your home, and then begin to practice outside as well. Your dog will come to understand that the tap equals good things for them, and they will begin to turn back to you anticipating the yummy treat. Continue to practice and “pay” for your dog turning to look at you. Eventually, after many, many, many repetitions, you may be able to replace your food reinforcer with attention and affection. In order to keep the behavior strong once it has been established (once you can rely on your dog turning to look at you when you tap them on the shoulder), continue to surprise your dog from time to time with something delicious as a reward.

When you start to train the shoulder tap, be mindful that deaf dogs often startle. As a deaf dog cannot hear an approach, and sometimes cannot feel the vibrations of someone nearby, the dog may startle when you appear suddenly. Work on associating people approaching with positive things. You may have to hold a tiny bit of yummy food each time you get near your deaf dog. Moving from room to room around your house, let your deaf dog know that you have gone. Walking directly past the dog or offering a light touch on your way out may help your dog feel less anxious since they have seen you leave. Your dog may choose to follow you or stay put; however, the anxiety of not knowing what happened to you has been eliminated.

Visual signals

The next step in training a deaf dog is to build more visual cues for communication. Some people choose to use American Sign Language (ASL) signs and/or single-hand adaptations of the ASL signs. You can also make up your own signals as long as they are distinct and consistent.

The importance of recall

Another vital part of communicating with a deaf dog is teaching a recall. It is ideal to work on longer-distance recalls in fenced areas or with a long leash. However, as with any behavior, you will want to start training in close proximity and in a low-distraction environment. Move away, at first just an inch at a time, and then signal with a visual cue for your dog to come to you. Mark movement toward you and be sure to reinforce as your dog arrives where you are. As with any recall, slowly build distance and eventually build in distractions.

The regular “check-in” behavior that you trained earlier will be important now as you work on recall with a deaf dog. You need your deaf dog to look back at you for instruction. Behaviors that are reinforced are repeated, so be sure that your pup finds coming to you when “called” a highly reinforcing behavior! Remember, just like training a hearing dog, be sure to break any new behavior into small pieces and train in short training sessions with many opportunities to “get it right.”

Expect and handle frustration

Sometimes an owner feels as though the animal understands what is being communicated, but simply chooses not to respond as desired. At other times, the human is frustrated with his/her difficulties communicating the desired outcome to the dog.


These are common frustrations training ANY dog, or ANY animal. However, with a deaf dog these feelings of exasperation may be intensified. Try to remember that even if you believe you have broken down the task into very small, manageable pieces and are communicating very clearly and efficiently, you are, in fact, communicating with a different species.

Because humans are verbally oriented in our information exchanges, communicating in different ways with a deaf dog may be a struggle at first. Any time that you feel overwhelmed, stop, and take a break. Revert back to something very simple, like making eye contact and marking and reinforcing this successful behavior. Celebrate tiny accomplishments; remember that this is a marathon and not a sprint. Your communication and training with your deaf dog, as with hearing dogs, will be a lifelong endeavor.

Deaf dogs: both students and teachers

Deaf dogs can make great ambassadors for positive reinforcement training. The word, and in the case of deaf dogs the signal or sign, for “no” is not something that is suggested to teach during your valuable training time. Telling an animal “no” does not provide much information. “No” is not a very clear communication tool, as it leaves the situation rather nebulous: “No what?” In its place, it is recommended to work on incompatible behaviors and impulse-control training. In that way, you can offer your dog the choice to make good decisions about what you DO want the dog to do!


Learning is not an upward and linear journey; it is a journey prone to setbacks and confusion. To achieve success with your deaf dog, maintain a positive attitude, take pride in small milestones, and acknowledge that your relationship is becoming stronger. Deaf dogs can teach a great amount about care, compassion, and novel training methods.


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My dog has a growth. What do I do?

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Lipoma in Dogs

Lipomas are subcutaneous (underneath the skin) masses or tumors that develop commonly in dogs. They are usually soft, with limited mobility under the skin. The overlying skin is usually not affected. Over time they can grow larger and can impede movement if they are located between the legs or low on the chest. Most dogs that develop a lipoma will develop multiple tumors. But, it is important to recognize that additional masses do not necessarily indicate malignancy or metastasis. Since other cutaneous masses may appear similar to lipomas, it is recommended that every mass be checked individually.

Another subclassification of benign lipomas is infiltrative lipomas. These typically invade locally into muscle tissue and fascia and may need to be removed.

Liposarcomas, on the other hand, are malignant and can spread (metastasize) to the lungs, bone, and other organs. These tumors are rare but are indicative of the importance of examining all subcutaneous masses respectively.

Symptoms

Most lipomas feel soft and movable under the skin. They usually do not make pets uncomfortable unless they are in a location where normal movement is disrupted, like in the axillary region under the front leg (armpit). Often they are located on the belly or trunk but can be anywhere on the dog’s body. Most dogs with one lipoma will eventually develop several.

Diagnosis

Your veterinarian will do a complete physical exam, checking for all palpable masses. A fine needle aspirate will indicate whether the mass is a benign lipoma, or whether it is a more worrisome masses that is mimicking a lipoma. If the aspirate is inconclusive, surgical removal and histopathology may be necessary to arrive at a clear diagnosis.

Infiltrative lipomas may require computed tomography (CT) or magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) to adequately understand the mass and tissue location. This can be important information for the surgeon to decide how much of the mass can be removed and what approach needs to be employed for surgery.

Treatment

Most dogs will not need to have their lipomas removed. However, if the lipoma is restricting movement in any way it will be necessary for your dog's comfort to remove the lipoma. In addition, if any diagnostics indicate the mass may be a more aggressive tumor, it may be advised to have the mass removed while your dog is still under anesthesia. Removal tends to be a simple process if the mass is small because lipomas are benign, meaning that they have not invaded the body, and a large margin is not needed.

However, one type of lipoma, the infiltrative lipoma, can require a more complex procedure. As the name implies, infiltrative lipomas invade into muscle tissue and fascia and can make complete surgical excision difficult. Radiation therapy has been used for infiltrative lipomas and may be used alone, or in conjunction with surgical excision.

Living and Management

Other subcutaneous masses, such as mast cell tumors, can mimic the appearance of a lipoma. It is vital to make sure that every mass is evaluated individually in the event that one of the masses is malignant. You will need to continue to monitor your dog's lipomas, noting any changes in size, number, or location.


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My Dog Gets Anxious Going to the Vet

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In a recent study released by the American Veterinary Medical Association (reported by NewSTAT), dogs undergo considerable stress and anxiety when they go for veterinary visits.

The study looked at 36 seemingly normal, healthy client-owned dogs and measured a number of parameters when the dogs were at home and again at the veterinary facility. This study evaluated changes in vital signs when dogs traveled between the home environment and the veterinary environment. Differences were recorded between dogs in the two environments.

These dogs had their respiratory rate, pulse rate, rectal temperature, and systolic arterial blood pressure measured in their home environment. They were then taken to the veterinary hospital and the measurements were repeated. The changes between the two environments were significant.


Dog anxiety at the veterinarian’s office

According to aaha.org, significant differences in blood pressure, rectal temperature, and pulse rate were observed between measurements obtained in the two environments. “Mean blood pressure increased by 16%..., rectal temperature increased (by < 1%)…, and pulse rate increased by 11% …. The number of dogs panting in the hospital environment (63%) was significantly higher than the number of dogs panting at home (17%).” Panting is frequently considered an indication of stress.

Similar studies of human patients have revealed a similar “white coat syndrome;” an elevation of blood pressure limited to the doctor’s office.

While more studies are indicated to evaluate the significance of these seemingly stress-related findings, it would appear that cats are not the only pets stressed when traveling to the veterinarian. Of course, routine veterinary visits for your pet are no less important than your own visits to the doctor. Therefore, efforts should be made to reduce the stress associated with veterinary visits.


Help your dog avoid anxiety at the veterinarian’s office

One important tip to reducing the stress of a vet visit is centered around car rides.

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Steps to get your pet accustomed to car rides:

  1. Some dogs get upset just getting in the car. Remember, they haven’t always had a positive experience. Begin by just putting your dog in the car with you for a few minutes. Don’t even start the car, just speak softly and pet your dog. Then let your dog out of the car and give them a treat. Repeat this several times daily, for a few days, until they associate getting into the car with the treat.

  2. When you're both comfortable in the car, start the engine. Again, just sit there reassuring your dog; give them a treat. Repeat this for a couple of days.

  3. Next, drive around a block or two and take your dog home for a treat. As your dog gets more comfortable, lengthen the drives and end them with a reward—a treat, a walk—whatever your dog seems to enjoy. A few days of this will show your dog that there are good things associated with the car.

  4. Drive to the veterinary clinic, but don’t take your dog in. just wait in the car and drive back home. You can walk the dog on a leash, around the parking lot, or just take the dog in and give them a reward.

  5. Schedule an appointment and take the dog into the exam room—no shots, no treatments— just a reward.

  6. Always end your visit to the veterinarian with a treat and, on occasion, a play period.

Granted, this will take some time and commitment, but it will do a lot to eliminate the fear factor.


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When to Take Your Cat to the Animal Emergency Room

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Some sure signs to bring your cat to the ER include:

  • Difficulty breathing (like open-mouth breathing, panting, or a respiratory rate over fifty breaths/minute [Tip: count the number of breaths in fifteen seconds and multiple by four to get the total breaths per minute]).

  • Hiding (under the bed, in the closet)

  • Not moving

  • Straining or making multiple trips to the litter box

  • Excessive grooming “back there” with the penis sticking out (dangerous and is typically a feline urethral obstruction or urinary blockage)

  • Lack of urine in the litter box for more than 36 hours

  • Painful when picking up

  • Profuse vomiting (more than 2-3 times in a night)

  • Excessive drooling

  • Sitting over the water bowl and not moving

  • Seizuring or twitching

  • Any kind of trauma

  • Any kind of poisoning

  • Any string hanging out of any orifice (Tip: please don’t pull! Leave all orifices to veterinary professionals).

While this list isn’t complete, it’s a good initial guideline.

If you want to be the financially savvy owner, it is best to go to your regular veterinarian before you end up with a more expensive emergency room visit. In other words, if you even have an inkling that something is wrong, better to go to your pet's veterinarian first rather than wait until Sunday night when your cat is really in dire straits (leading to a more expensive hospitalization).


When in doubt, call your veterinarian or an emergency clinic for counsel on whether to bring your cat in for an emergency visit. In fact, when in doubt, you can even go into the emergency room and potentially asked to be triaged to stabilize your pet's condition. Not all clinics will offer this, but it is worth asking. This is particularly important if you’re not sure if your cat has a urinary obstruction. Simply allow the emergency veterinarian to cop a feel of your cat’s bladder, and voila… if they don’t think your cat is blocked, they may “triage” you away to your family vet the next day.


When in doubt, it’s always safer to heed the side of caution. You won’t regret playing it too safe with your feline friend.


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