Diabetes Ketoacidosis (DKA) - A Complication of Diabetes in Cats and Dogs

Unfortunately, as veterinarians, we are seeing an increased prevalence of diabetes mellitus in dogs and cats. This is likely due to the growing prevalence of obesity (secondary to inactive lifestyle, a high carbohydrate diet, lack of exercise, etc.). You're probably wondering if you just had a dog or cat diagnosed with diabetes mellitus—what do you do? First, we encourage you to take a look at these articles for an explanation of the disease:

• Diabetes in Cats

• Diabetes in Dogs

This article will teach you about life-threatening complications that can occur as a result of the disease; specifically, a life-threatening condition called diabetes ketoacidosis (DKA) so that you know how to help prevent it.

What is DKA?

When diabetes goes undiagnosed or difficult to control or regulate, the complication of DKA can occur. DKA develops because the body is so lacking in insulin that the sugar can’t get into the cells — resulting in cell starvation. Cell starvation causes the body to start breaking down fat in an attempt to provide energy (or a fuel source) to the body. Unfortunately, these fat breakdown products, called “ketones,” are also poisonous to the body.

Symptoms of DKA

Clinical signs of DKA include the following:

• Weakness

• Not moving (in cats, hanging out by the water bowl)

• Not eating or complete anorexia

• Vomiting

• Excessive thirst and urination (clear, dilute urine)

• Large urinary clumps in the litter box (anything bigger than a tennis ball is abnormal)

• Weight loss (most commonly over the back), despite an overweight body condition

• Obesity

• Flaky skin coat

• Excessively dry or oily skin coat

• Abnormal breath (typically a sweet “ketotic” odor)

• Diarrhea
  

In severe cases DKA can also result in more significant signs:

• Abnormal breathing pattern

• Jaundice

• Abdominal pain (sometimes due to the secondary problem of pancreatitis)

• Tremors or seizures

• Coma

• Death

What can cause DKA?

When DKA occurs, it’s often triggered by an underlying medical problem such as an infection or metabolic (organ) problem. Some common problems that we see with DKA include the following:

• Pancreatitis

• Urinary tract infection

• Chronic kidney failure

• Endocrine diseases (e.g., hyperadrenocorticism [when the body makes too much steroid], or hyperthyroidism [an overactive thyroid gland])

• Lung disease (such as pneumonia)

• Heart disease (such as congestive heart failure)

• Liver disease (such as fatty changes to the liver)

• Cancer

Diagnosing DKA

While diagnosing DKA is simple, by looking at the blood sugar levels of dogs and cats and by measuring the presence of these fat breakdown products in the urine or blood, treatment can be costly (running between $3-5000). A battery of tests and diagnostics need to be performed, to look for underlying problems listed above, and treatment typically requires aggressive therapy and 24/7 hospitalization.

Treatment of DKA

Treatment, typically, is required for 3-7 days, and includes the following:

• A special intravenous catheter called a “central line” (placed to aid in frequent blood draws)

• Aggressive intravenous fluids

• Electrolyte supplementation and monitoring

• Blood sugar monitoring

• A fast acting or ultra fast acting insulin, regular or Lispro, typically given intravenously or in the muscle

• Blood pressure monitoring

• Nutritional support (often in the form of a temporary feeding tube)

• Anti-vomiting or anti-nausea medication

• Antibiotics

• Long-term blood sugar monitoring and a transition to a longer-acting insulin

Thankfully, with aggressive supportive care, many patients with DKA do well as long as pet parents are prepared for the long-term commitment (including twice-a-day insulin, frequent veterinary visits to monitor the blood sugar, and the ongoing costs of insulin, syringes, etc.).

Preventing DKA

By following your veterinarian’s guidelines and recommendations you can help regulate and control your pet’s diabetic state better and monitor your pet carefully for clinical signs. For example, if your pet is still excessively thirsty or urinating frequently despite insulin therapy, they are likely poorly controlled and need an adjustment of their insulin dose (of course, never adjust your pet’s insulin or medications without consulting your veterinarian).

When in doubt remember that the sooner you detect a problem in your dog or cat, the less expensive that problem is to treat. If you notice any clinical signs of diabetes mellitus or DKA, seek immediate veterinary attention. Most importantly, blood glucose curves (when a veterinarian measures your pet’s response to their insulin level) often need to be done multiple times per year (especially in the beginning stages of diabetes mellitus).

If you have any questions or concerns, you should always visit or call your veterinarian.

Related reading:

• Diabetes in Cats

• Diabetes in Dogs

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Can dogs get breast cancer? Learn about Mammary Tumors in Dogs

October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month. Every October, we are reminded to spread the word about breast cancer prevention and early detection. That awareness extends to our dogs as well.

What is a mammary tumor (breast cancer)?

A mammary tumor develops as a result of abnormal replication of the cells that make up the breast tissue. Mammary tumors can be benign (non-cancerous) or malignant (cancerous). These two forms of the disease have different diagnostics, treatments, management, and prognosis.

There are several different types of malignant mammary tumors, with carcinomas being the most common. Carcinomas arise from epithelial (skin) cells, tubules of the mammary glands, or other cells found in the mammary chain. There are other cancers that can affect mammary glands, including osteosarcomas.

What causes this cancer?

The exact causes for the development of mammary tumors in dogs are not fully understood. It is well known that exposure to specific hormones, namely progesterone, increases the risk for developing mammary cancers in dogs. This is because progesterone stimulates growth factors (molecules that stimulate specific processes in the body) that cause mammary cells to multiply (i.e., replicate).

The incidence of these tumors is related to whether a dog is intact or has had an ovariohysterectomy (i.e., has been spayed). Dogs spayed prior to their first heat (also called estrus) have only a 0.5% risk of developing mammary tumor(s). However, after a first or second heat, this dramatically increases to a risk of 8% and 26%, respectively. Age also appears to play a role; the risk of tumor development significantly increases once a dog reaches 7 years of age and continues increasing until 11-13 years of age. This increased risk is breed dependent indicating that there is a genetic component.

Certain breeds appear to be more commonly affected, including Chihuahuas, Poodles, Dachshunds, Yorkshire Terriers, Cocker Spaniels, Brittany Spaniels, English Setters, Boxer Dogs, and Doberman Pinchers. Research in veterinary medicine continues, but to-date we still know little about which genes and mutations can lead to the development of mammary tumors in dogs. In human medicine, research has established a definite relationship between the BRCA gene (or breast cancer gene) and the development of breast cancer

What are the signs that my dog has this type of tumor?

The most common clinical sign of a malignant mammary tumor is one (or more) palpable masses underneath the skin of the abdomen. They may be next to or within the nipple and follow along the mammary chain. The size of the mass(es) and their appearance may vary, but they are usually firm and nodular. Occasionally the skin over the mass may ulcerate (open) and bleed, and the affected area may feel warm to the touch and become painful. The mammary gland may even develop a discharge.

If the tumor has metastasized (spread to other areas of the body), other signs may become evident. Your dog may generally feel unwell, eat less, become lethargic, and lose weight. If the lungs are involved, your dog may have problems with breathing or develop a cough.

How is this type of tumor diagnosed?

These tumors are typically found as either singular or multiple nodules along your dog’s abdomen during a physical exam. Other procedures are then performed to determine the type of tumor and whether it is benign or malignant.

A common procedure to diagnose this tumor is a fine needle aspiration (FNA). FNA involves taking a small needle with a syringe and suctioning a sample of cells directly from the tumor and placing them on a microscope slide. A veterinary pathologist then examines the slide under a microscope.

In some cases, results from FNA may not be entirely clear and a biopsy or removal of the entire tumor may be necessary. Pieces of the tumor are then examined by a veterinary pathologist under the microscope. This is called histopathology. Histopathology is not only helpful to make a diagnosis but can indicate whether it is benign or malignant, and therefore how the tumor is likely to behave.

Given the risk of metastasis (spread to other areas of the body) with malignant mammary tumors, your veterinarian may also recommend staging (searching for potential spread to other locations in the body). This may include bloodwork, urinalysis, X-rays of the lungs, and possibly an abdominal ultrasound. The lymph nodes associated with the mammary glands may be sampled by FNA even if they seem normal.

How do malignant mammary tumors typically progress?

The way malignant mammary tumors typically progress is entirely dependent on the type and size of the tumor(s), and whether metastasis has occurred. Larger tumors (those greater than 3 cm) and those with evidence of spread have a poor prognosis. Tumors smaller than 1 cm have a better prognosis. Detecting and treating these tumors when they are small and before spread has occurred will provide your dog with the best chance for long-term control.

What are the treatments for this type of tumor?

For dogs with solitary mammary tumors, surgery is by far the best treatment. If there is only one small mass and staging shows no evidence of spread, surgery may be the only treatment your dog receives.

For dogs with multiple tumors of one or both mammary chains, the associated – or all – of the mammary glands may need to be removed. If your dog is intact, an ovariohysterectomy (spay) is recommended and may be done at the same time as the mammary gland removal.

For dogs with larger tumors or evidence of spread to other areas of the body, chemotherapy is typically recommended. There is increasing evidence that radiation therapy may provide some benefit for dogs with inflammatory carcinomas in addition to chemotherapy. Your veterinarian will discuss the options that are best suited for your dog’s particular situation.

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Road Safety and Traveling with Pets

A study provided by Volvo Car USA and The Harris Poll revealed that allowing pets to roam unrestrained on road trips led to significantly more unsafe driving behaviors, more time spent distracted, and increased stress on both the drivers and their pets.

Some of their findings include:

• 4 in 10 millennials choose a weekend getaway with their dog than their partner

• 32% of pet owners have left a dog at home because they felt their car was not safe enough

• 77% of Americans say people don't take vehicular dog safety seriously enough

It’s well established by now that our pets are essential members of the family, but many pet owners aren’t keeping their safety in mind when driving with them too. Volvo’s report followed 15 drivers and their dogs for more than 30 hours on the road to examine how driving with an unrestrained pet affected driving behavior vs. when an owner used a restraint (pet seat belts, harnesses, crates, carriers, etc).

What Happens With Pets Allowed to Roam Freely

Unsafe driving behaviors more than doubled. 649 instances while unrestrained vs. 274 while restrained. This includes climbing on a driver’s lap or hanging their head out of the window.

Time spent with drivers distracted more than doubled. 3hrs 39 mins spent unrestrained vs. 1hr 39 restrained. This includes dogs jumping from seat to seat or taking the drivers’ eyes off of the road.

Stress on both drivers and pets increased. Heart rates were likely increased for both people and pets. Unrestrained dogs measured a heart rate 7 beats per minute faster. Drivers felt calmer when dogs were buckled in, with heart rates dropping as much as 28 and 34 beats per minute.

The study further illustrates the dangers to all passengers, human and canine, when pets are not restrained. While pets roaming around the car can be cute and convenient, it poses serious risk for both drivers and their pets, both in terms of causing distractions and increasing the chances of serious injury in the event of an accident.

How to assure a safer road trip with pets

1. Don’t drive with your pet in the front seat. In the event of a collision, a dog or cat can be thrown from the seat into the windshield, even if restrained. Unless the passenger side airbag is disengaged, the airbag deployment can be dangerous to a small pet.

2. Never drive with your pet on your lap. It is not only a serious distraction to driving, bu the pet can get caught under the steering wheel and cause and accident or can be projected forward in the event of a collision.

3. Never drive with your pet unrestrained. In addition to being a distraction, an abrupt can cause the pet to fall quickly and cause soft tissue injury or worse. In the event of an accident, pets can jump from the vehicle and go into moving traffic and be hit by other vehicles or get lost in an unfamiliar area.

4. Never allow your pet to lean out of a car window. Debris can be forced into their eyes and cause abrasions or punctures to the cornea / eye, which can result in blindness.

5. Never leave your dog unattended in a vehicle. Depending on the breed, level of anxiety, and ambient temperature, some people may be tempted to keep their pet in the car while running a short errand. Even in cooler months, never leave your dog unattended in your vehicle, no matter how short of a period, to avoid extreme temperatures and heat stroke / hypothermia.

With these tips in mind, we wish everyone safe, future road trips with their pets!

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5 Signs Your Pet Has an Eye Emergency

It's not uncommon for a veterinary clinic to field plenty of questions concerning pet eye problems on the daily. “Watchful waiting” is advised with some minor complaints, but never with eyes.

A non-vet pet owner cannot assess an eye problem’s severity, and a description over the phone just doesn’t cut it. In other words, when someone calls in and says their pet’s eye “looks funny,” it’s time for a trip to the vet.

Your vet may even direct you to a board-certified veterinary ophthalmologist for immediate assessment if the emergency requires it.

Red, inflamed or swollen eyes? Each of these symptoms can be caused by different ailments.

1. Red Eye

The white of the eye should be pristine white, with the odd lazy blood vessel meandering across the surface. If you’re not sure what this looks like, check out your own eye in the mirror.

Red eyes are not normal.

Gently lift the upper eyelid to check, and you’ll see anything from a rosy pink to a livid red. As a rule of thumb, the angrier the eye looks, the more urgently it needs checking.

Causes of red-eye range from irritation and infection to a condition called glaucoma.

Glaucoma: Pressure builds within the eye, like blowing too much air into a balloon. The most common cause is a problem within the eye and is often breed-related (Basset Hounds, Cocker Spaniels, terriers and northern breeds are at greatest risk). The pressure can damage the retina and cause blindness, so swift action is essential.

Conjunctivitis: Infection causes reddening of the eye. Sometimes the problem can be self-limiting, but — especially if there is a sticky yellow-green discharge, too — please see a vet.

2. Yellow-Green Discharge

It’s normal to have a white gloop in the corner of an eye first thing in the morning. Just wipe this away with a clean, damp cotton towel.

Also, rust-colored gloop is fine. This is a normal gloop that’s been exposed to the air for a while and oxidized (like when you cut an apple in half and it goes brown).

What isn’t normal is a thick, yellow-green discharge from one or both eyes. This is commonly a sign of infection.

Have the vet check the eye because some infections need antibiotics, while others can occur as a complication of another problem that needs attention.

3. Swollen Eye

If there’s something odd about your pet’s face, compare one eyelid with the other to see if one side is swollen. Eyelid swelling can be the result of an allergy, trauma, or infection. It’s best to seek vet attention because the eyeball needs checking to make sure it wasn’t damaged.

4. Dull Eye

Is the eye lackluster? A normal eye is bright, and you can see reflections on the surface— but sometimes the surface is dull and reflections aren’t clear, or those images are broken up or haphazard.

The most common reasons for this are either a dry eye or a corneal ulcer:

Dry eye: Our eyes are kept comfortable by the production of tear fluid. A pet with dry-eye fails to produce enough tear fluid, which leads to the surface drying out. One consequence is a dull surface, and another is the eye tries to protect itself by producing a thick, glue-like discharge. In the long term, scar tissue forms, impairing the vision.

Corneal ulcer: This is like a burst blister on the surface of the eye. In some cases, it heals on its own, but other times it can be dangerous and cause perforation of the eye.

5. Closed Eye

A closed eye is painful: Just think of the last time you had grit in your eye.

The pain might be due to a corneal ulcer, a knock to the eye, or a foreign body — anything from dust to grass particles or even a twig. When our pets are sniffing around, it’s not uncommon to get something lodged behind the eyelids.

Your vet will put drops of local anesthetic into the eye to get a better look and remove the object.

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5 Most Common Eye Emergencies (in Dogs)

Here, we go into more detail about some of the top ophthalmologic emergencies we see with dogs in general practice.

1. Corneal Ulcers

Corneal ulcers are the most common acute eye problems seen. (This goes for cats as well.) The cornea is the outer “skin” of the eye; an ulcer occurs if this layer has been damaged.

Corneal ulcers are often traumatic in origin, although certain diseases of the cornea can result in an ulcer. Trauma to the cornea can occur with a scratch from a bush, a stick or even another critter.

Treatment involves early diagnosis of the severity of the ulcer and the administration of appropriate eye medications.

More serious ulcers may require surgery, and frequent re-checks are needed to ensure the cornea is healing nicely. When a corneal ulcer goes from bad to worse, the cornea can actually rupture — this is a true emergency indeed.

2. Proptosis

Proptosis occurs when an eye literally bulges out of the socket and the eyelids entrap the globe. This occurs most frequently in brachycephalic breeds and is a true emergency.

Even with immediate care, the dog may lose the eye depending on the extent of trauma sustained by the extraocular muscles, nerves, and blood supply.

Many of these eyes can be replaced and vision saved in about 20% of dogs, but only if you act immediately.

3. Corneal Laceration

Corneal laceration occurs when there is a complete tear through the cornea. The most common offender from a cat claw.

A sharp object, like a stick, can also puncture the cornea. The dog is almost always holding the eye completely shut and is in significant pain. Again, immediate surgery may save the eye.

Get to the vet. There is a very small window of opportunity when it comes to repairing these eye injuries.

4. Lens Luxation

Lens luxation is over-represented in certain breeds like the Russell Terrier and other terriers. In these dogs, due to a genetic disorder, the lens can spontaneously luxate, or become dislocated. In other breeds, causes may vary — head trauma is one example. This is a difficult diagnosis and may require a visit to an ophthalmologist.

Compared with the normal eye, a lens luxation can look like a very dilated pupil or a blue or whitish eye. Removing the lens can save the eye and save the dog from pain and total blindness.

5. Acute Glaucoma

Acute glaucoma looks like a discolored, a “red” or an inflamed eye. There may be discharge and painful blinking (called blepharospasm).

Glaucoma occurs when, for whatever reason, the pressure in the eye elevates, leading to pain, secondary changes, and blindness. The condition is usually obvious in just one eye, but both eyes are at risk.

Again, this is over-represented in certain breeds like the Cocker Spaniel, Basset Hound, Shih Tzu, Great Dane, and northern breeds.
As with every other eye problem discussed here, acute glaucoma should be assessed and treated immediately. Both systemic (oral) and ophthalmic drugs are used. Get an opinion from a veterinary ophthalmologist to help you and your primary care vet manage the case.

Don’t mess around with the eyes. Ophthalmic problems need early diagnosis and treatment.

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Why You Should Routinely Clean Your Pet’s Food and Water Bowls

Did you know your pet's food and water bowls are a hot spot of risk? Dirty food and water bowls can lead to parasites, affecting your pets and household. In the context of hygiene, pet food bowls are definitely an important part of your cleaning routine to be meticulous about.

We will cover a variety of things:

Good Hygiene & Safety Measures

4 Ways Your Dog’s Water Can Make Them Sick

Determining the right bowls for your pet

Where Do the Bugs Come From?

Zoonotic diseases are diseases that normally infect an animal, but poses a risk to people.

The most common zoonoses with regard to food and water bowls are salmonella, campylobacter, and worms.

These bugs have different mechanisms of causing infection, but they can all be shed into the environment through feces and travel indoors on the pet’s paws or coat.

When your pet licks their fur and then eats from a bowl, this can spread infection onto an object you touch. When you pick up the bowl, you run the risk of getting that same bug on your hands.

Also, with salmonella, the food itself may contain bacteria, with raw meat and eggs posing a special risk. We normally rely on thorough cooking to kill salmonella, so feeding a raw diet to your pet increases the risk.

Food Hygiene

Knowing raw meat could contain salmonella should make you think twice about where you store it.

It should be refrigerated (below 40° F) to slow down the growth of contaminating bacteria. Avoid storing raw meat or any pet food immediately beside human food. Make sure it’s securely wrapped and put in a different section of the fridge whenever possible.

The longer food sits in the open at room temperature, the greater the chance of bacterial contamination and multiplication. With this in mind, serve only the portion your pet can eat in one go so that food isn’t left sitting around. To streamline this and avoid the risks, buy packs of moist food in smaller sizes so you can throw unopened food away rather than store open sachets for days.

Related: Salmonella Infection in Pets & People and Zoonotic Diseases

What’s the Safest Way to Wash Bowls?

Wash them every day: Rinse them under running water and either hand-wash them in hot soapy water or put them on the top rack of the dishwasher (so the dishwasher’s heat doesn’t melt plastic dishes).

When hand-washing, do the pet’s dishes last, using a separate sponge or scourer kept just for the pet’s things. Make the water as hot as you can stand without burning yourself and use liquid or detergent soap. Rinse them well — your pets won’t enjoy a soapy aftertaste, and there’s a slim chance it could make them ill.

Fresh drinking water must be available for your pet at all times, so have at least 2 sets of everything so you have one bowl that’s clean and full of water for your pet while you are cleaning the other one.

Other Safety Measures

Always keep separate utensils for the pet’s food, such as serving spoons, forks, or scoops. Never use the pet’s things (toys, bowls, etc.) as a scoop.

Although some pets have nasty tummy upsets as a result of salmonella and campylobacter—not all do. Some pets are carriers, meaning the bug is in their system—they’re not ill, but they excrete it in their waste. Some of those bacteria (and also worm eggs) get onto the pet’s coat and then onto your hands when you stroke them. Delightful imagery, right? Wash! Your! Hands!

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4 Ways Your Dog’s Water Can Make Them Sick

Your dog’s water bowl is the 3rd most germ-laden place in the house!

We all know clean and fresh water is vital for good health. With this in mind, you probably top up the bowl every time it goes down.

But as it happens, this isn’t sufficient to ensure good health. Merely topping up the water level does nothing to control harmful bacteria or even toxins that can be lurking in the water. Not only are these bugs unpleasant, but also they can cause illness in people, especially those with weak immune systems. So what bugs could be lurking in your pet's water bowl? Surprisingly, quite a few!

1. Giardia

This single-celled parasite may be better known to you as “traveler’s diarrhea.” It can infect people too—not just your pets.

Giardia is shed in feces inside a hardy oocyst. The latter is tough and can survive for long periods of time in warm, humid conditions, and thrives in water.

When a dog drinks infected water, the parasite passes into its gut. Some dogs show no symptoms, but others can develop sickness and weight loss in addition to diarrhea.

A diagnosis is made by examining a fecal sample under a microscope. Most cases respond well to 3-10 days of medication tailored to your pet.

Related: How do pets and people become infected with Giardia?

2. Cryptosporidium

Cryptosporidium is similar to giardia but a whole lot tougher. It’s so tough that it can survive chlorine treatment. Similar to giardia, oocysts are passed in feces that, if they get into the water, are a source of infection for animals and birds.

• Your vet will prepare a treatment of fenbendazole or metronidazole to kill the parasite in the gut.

• Bathe and shampoo the dog on the last day of treatment to wash away any oocysts clinging to the coat. Not doing so risks reinfection should the dog lick their fur.

Related: What Can I Catch From My Dog?

3. Leptospirosis

Leptospirosis is a particularly nasty infection with the potential to kill. It’s also a devious infection because signs can range from mild stomach upsets that last for weeks to months to an acute liver and kidney failure that are fatal in hours.

Other symptoms include:

• Fever

• Muscle weakness

• Blood in the urine

• Loss of appetite

• Vomiting

• Diarrhea

• Collapse due to organ failure

Leptospirosis can be spread by rat urine and especially loves water sources such as standing water, puddles, and birdbaths. The unpredictable nature of leptospirosis means prevention is the best policy.

Luckily, there are vaccines available for your dog. If you live in a risk area for lepto, then your vet will advise giving the vaccine. A word of caution, though: The vaccine must be given yearly, as immunity is often gone completely 12 months after the previous dose.

Humans, however, don’t yet have a vaccine. Did you know pets can pass lepto to people? If your dog shows similar symptoms to those above and you feel unwell, see your physician as a matter of urgency.

Related: You and Your Pet Are at Risk For Leptospirosis

4. Blue-Green Algae

You may be aware that dogs shouldn’t swim in water with an obvious algal bloom—but do you know why?

Cyanobacteria, also known as blue-green algae, are a toxin-producing form of bacteria. This toxin can affect any mammal (yes, including people), causing nerve and liver damage.

Signs of toxicity include:

• Weakness

• Muscle tremors

• Drooling

• Vomiting

• Diarrhea

• Breathing difficulties

• Collapse and death

There is no antidote to blue-green algae poisoning. Treatment includes rinsing out the stomach to remove contamination and supportive care with intravenous fluids.

So don’t let your dog swim in dirty water or drink from containers of “old” water — give them the fresh stuff.

Related: How Red Tide Affects Your Pet

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Biofilms on Your Pet’s Water Bowl Are Bad

Spot the biofilm in your pet’s water bowl.

Does your dog or cat have a stainless steel drinking bowl? Next time you rinse the bowl under the tap, look for that misty, smoky layer covering the metal.

If you can’t see it, try wiping your finger across the wet metal surface. If your fingertip leaves a clean streak in its path, then you’re looking at a biofilm.

The definition of a biofilm is: “A thin but robust layer of mucilage adhering to a solid surface and containing a community of bacteria and other microorganisms.” So, basically a thin layer of stickiness rich in bacteria that coats a surface. Yum!
You will have experienced a biofilm for yourself the last time you skipped brushing your teeth. Do you know that unpleasant stickiness that coated your teeth? Well, this is a biofilm made up of mucin, which is a mucous-like glue and bacteria combination.

When water comes into contact with a biofilm, it then becomes a weak bacterial soup. When the pet drinks that water, it’s tantamount to challenging their immune system to a duel. If the dog is very young, elderly, or on immune-suppressive drugs, then there’s a risk of them becoming ill.

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Ditch The Plastic!

Plastic is riddled with risks.

Plastic bowls have more than their fair share of problems when it comes to drinking water.

The plastic surface is easily scratched, which provides inviting nooks and crannies for bugs to hide in.

But more than this, plastic bowls are made of chemicals. One in particular, p-benzyl hydroquinone, inhibits the production of melanin (dark pigment).

It’s melanin that gives a black, leathery nose its rich, deep color. When a nose has regular contact with p-benzyl hydroquinone, such as when the dog drinks, it can cause depigmentation. This can lead to a black nose turning mottled or patchy-looking.

Just think—if this substance can do this to the outside of the body, what’s it doing to the inside?

We know that BPA (a chemical that hardens plastic) can interfere with the production of natural hormones in the body. In people, BPAs are linked to diabetes, impaired brain function, and cancer. When you think about how small dogs and cats are compared to people, the dose of BPA they get must be relatively higher.

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Micro-Cracks Lurk in Ceramic Bowls

Surely, a good, heavy-duty ceramic bowl is better, right? Yes and no.

Ceramic bowls aren’t regulated in terms of what goes into making them. There is concern that some originating from China contain lead. Lead is a toxic substance that causes destruction of the red blood cells and nerve damage and is generally a substance best avoided.

In addition, the glaze on a ceramic bowl is subject to microfractures. This is called “crazing” within the glaze and can be seen on a microscopic level.

Scientists investigating biofilms found them to be just as bad on ceramic bowls as plastic. They suspect this ultra-fine crazing somehow provides “grip” for the microfilm to stick to.

Stainless Steel Is Best

The hands-down winner when it comes to drinking bowls is stainless steel. However, this is only if they are washed regularly, preferably on a daily basis.

Even a stainless steel bowl builds up a biofilm if it’s not washed properly. Get into the habit of washing your dog’s water bowl daily, preferably with hot, soapy water or by putting it through the dishwasher.

Don’t be tempted to merely top up the water level— this is feeding the bacterial soup. For optimal health for your pets (and family) choose stainless steel and empty it out daily, wash it with hot, soapy water, rinse and fill with fresh water.

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