Upper-Respiratory Infections in Cats

Yes, it’s true. Our feline friends can get colds, too. As is the case for humans, bacteria or viruses are to blame.

The bacteria or viruses that most commonly cause upper respiratory infections (URIs) in cats are:

• Feline herpesvirus type-1 (FHV-1), also known as feline viral rhinotracheitis (FVR).

• Feline calicvirus (FVC)

• Bordetella bronchiseptica (B. bronchiseptica)

• Chlamydophilia felis (C. felis)

• Mycoplasma spp. (bacteria) or a feline respiratory, such as FIV or FeLV, also contribute to issues with upper respiratory infections.

Bacteria and viruses are very contagious and are present in the saliva and discharge produced by their eyes and nose. Healthy cats can get infected when they come into direct contact with a sick cat. Cats with retroviruses are especially vulnerable to the contagions, both through direct contact and indirect contact with contaminated objects.

Unfortunately, even seemingly recovered cats can still be carriers of the aforementioned diseases and unknowingly pass it on to other cats. Mother cats can also act as carriers, passing infections on to their litters.

Cats that have contracted FVR are considered “chronic carriers”, meaning they will carry the virus for life and can become sick again in times of high stress such as moving, new housemates, babies, etc. About half of the cats infected with FVC will remain infected as carriers, sometimes for a few months after the symptoms cease, and in rare occasions, for life.

Symptoms of Feline Upper Respiratory Infections

Some of the common symptoms of an upper respiratory infection in cats are:

• sniffling

• sneezing

• clear to pus-like discharge from the eyes and/or the nose

• coughing

• lethargy

How long can Feline Upper Respiratory Infections last?

An infection typically lasts for 7 to 21 days. There is an incubation period, which is the time period from point of infection to when clinical signs become apparent, which spans 2 to 10 days. It is thought the incubation time is the time of highest contagion.

Diagnosing cats with a Feline Upper Respiratory Infection

The clinical signs and symptoms are typically apparent enough to make a diagnosis. However, diagnostic tests are required to determine the cause of the infection. Some of the tests your veterinarian may recommend are:

• A complete blood count (CBC) to rule out blood-related conditions.

• Chemistry tests to ensure your cat isn’t dehydrated or suffering from an electrolyte imbalance.

• Urine tests to screen for urinary tract infection and other disease, and to evaluate the ability of the kidneys to concentrate urine.

• Tests for feline leukemia virus (FeLV) and feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV).

Your veterinarian may want to run additional tests for cats with chronic upper respiratory infections, such as radiographs to evaluate the lungs and sinuses, cultures of cells, and microscopic evaluation of discharge.

Treatment for Feline Upper Respiratory Infections

Your veterinarian will determine the best treatment for your cat, which may include specific prescriptions and possible hospitalization, depending on the severity of the situation.

For more mild infections, other suggests of treatment may include:

• Increase humidity within your house (such as a humidifier or short trips to a steamy bathroom several times a day)

• Offer food that is appetizing to your cat, such as canned food, to encourage eating.

• Clear the eyes and nose of discharge by wiping the eyes and nose with a moistened washcloth that can be properly washed and disinfected.

Prevention of Feline Upper Respiratory Infections

Vaccination can protect your cat from the most common causes of an upper respiratory infection (FVR and FVC).

Disinfection is another highly effective way of minimizing environmental exposure. In high to minimal risk situations, it is advisable to regularly disinfect shared items such as litter boxes, food bowls, and bedding.

Preventing direct contact between cats is the best way to ultimately avoid infection. If you are bringing home a new cat that has come from a breeder or a shelter, it is important to have them visit the veterinarian before introducing them to any cats you currently have in the home. Keep in mind that your new cat may not yet show symptoms, so limited exposure and diligence in cleaning and sanitizing is critical in the first 1 to 2 weeks after adoption.

How are humans affected by a Feline Upper Respiratory Infection?

Humans are at a low risk of contracting the diseases responsible for causing upper respiratory infections in felines. Most of these infectious agents are species-specific. Viruses such as B. bronchiseptica and conjunctivitis associated with C. felis can be a possible risk for people with lowered immunity. To prevent the chance of infection, wash your hands frequently.

If you have any questions or concerns, you should always visit or call your veterinarian – they are your best resource to ensure the health and well-being of your pets.

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Camphor poisoning in pets: the trouble with topical pain or arthritis rubs.

Have you ever had a sore spot on an arm or leg and rubbed a patch of Tiger Balm, only to have your pet get affectionate and lick you? Or maybe they lick your hand to get your attention before you've had time to wash your hands? This could be a serious issue, resulting in an immediate call to the Pet Poison Helpline.

Camphor is commonly found in topical pain or arthritis body rubs. Examples of some common trade names containing camphor include Carmex, Tiger Balm, Vicks VapoRub, Campho-Phenique, etc. Camphor is readily absorbed across the skin, and should never be applied to dogs or cats due to risks for poisoning. Clinical signs of camphor poisoning in pets include local skin irritation, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, depression, seizures (in large amounts), and even rarely, death (from respiratory depression or seizures).

Poisonous to: Cats, Dogs

Level of toxicity: Generally mild to moderate

Common signs to watch for:

• Local skin irritation

• Nausea

• Vomiting

• Diarrhea

• Depression

• Seizures (in large amounts)

• Death (rarely, from respiratory depression or seizures)

Alternate names: topical, Carmex, Tiger Balm, Vicks, VapoRub, Campho-Phenique, Arthritis Rub

If you think your dog or cat were exposed to camphor, call your veterinarian or Pet Poison Helpline immediately for treatment advice.

24/7 ANIMAL POISON CONTROL CENTER
(855) 764-7661

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Whisker Fatigue in Cats

If you've never heard of whisker fatigue, don't worry. It's not necessarily a widely known condition. But for some cats, it does negatively impact daily life.

Why do cats have whiskers?

Cat whiskers are extraordinary sensing hairs that give them almost extrasensory powers. Despite their evolution, whiskers (tactile hairs or vibrissae), have remained as features on most mammals in some basic form.

For cats, whiskers are much more than facial adornments that add to their cuteness. Whiskers act as high-powered antennae that pull signals into their brain and nervous system. The ultra-sensitive sensory organs at the base of the whiskers, called proprioceptors, tell your cat a lot about their world. They provide your cat with information regarding their own orientation in space and the what and where of their environment. In these ways, whiskers help your cat move around furniture in a dark room, hunt fast-moving prey (by sensing changes in air currents) and help to determine if they can squeeze into that incredibly tight spot between the bookcase and the wall.

So what exactly is whisker fatigue?

While cats can voluntarily “turn on” the sensory focus of their whiskers exactly where they want, whisker receptors mostly respond to a cat’s autonomic system — the sympathetic and parasympathetic nerves that respond to the internal and external environment without conscious control (for example—pupils constricting in response to bright light).

You can think of whisker fatigue as an information overload that stresses out your cat. Because whisker hairs are so sensitive, every time your cat comes into contact with an object or detects movement, even a small change in air current or a slight brush against their face, messages are transmitted from those sensory organs at the base of their whiskers to their brain. That barrage of “messages” could stress out your cat, eventually causing what some people call whisker fatigue.

However, “fatigue” may not be the best description of the condition, since what your cat is feeling is probably more like distaste or aversion than soreness or actual fatigue. In fact, whisker stress is another term some people use for the condition.

Not all feline vets think whisker fatigue is a real condition or cause for concern. Dr. Cathy Lund of City Kitty, a feline-only veterinary practice in Providence, R.I, questions the validity of whisker fatigue. While a cat’s whiskers do serve as very sensitive tactile sensors, she does not believe contact between whiskers and objects causes stress in cats. That said, stress, for whatever reason, is a real issue of concern for cat owners and vets.

What causes whisker fatigue?

While your cat relies on their fetching facial antennae to navigate the world, they can’t tune out unnecessary messages the way we filter out background noise. They inadvertently finds stimulation in the most common and ever-present situations, like at their food or water bowl. If their whiskers touch the sides of the bowl every time they dips their head to sip or eat, this can cause whisker fatigue, the theory suggests.

Your cat’s behavior at their food and water bowl will tip you off that they are stressed. Some signs to watch for include:

• Pacing in front of the bowls

• Being reluctant to eat but appearing to be hungry

• Pawing at food and knocking it to the floor before eating

• Acting aggressive toward other animals around food

Of course these behaviors can also be related to potentially serious health conditions like dental disease, oral tumors, gastrointestinal diseases, behavioral problems and more, so if you have any concerns about your cat’s well-being, you should make an appointment with your veterinarian.

Many vets, regardless of their opinions on whisker fatigue, agree that cats often find eating out of a bowl unappealing in general and providing a flat surface for meals is preferable.

Whisker fatigue is not a disease (and is not caused by or related to any type of illness) and appears to manifest primarily with the repeated daily contact with food and water bowls. However, a cat who is stressed is not happy, and if they avoid eating and drinking, they might become malnourished and/or dehydrated.

How can whisker fatigue be prevented?

Luckily, preventing or stopping stress related to whisker fatigue at feeding time is as easy as replacing your cat’s food and water bowls. At meal time, provide a flat surface or a wide-enough bowl for cat food so that their whiskers don't touch the sides of the bowl. In a pinch, a paper plate can serve as a suitable food dish.

Most cats prefer a lip-less, large flowing water source, for drinking. Ideally, cat parents should provide an automatic, fresh water source, like a cat water fountain, which cats prefer to an icky, stale bowl of water that might as well be from an old tire.

Some cat parents believe another solution is to trim their cats’ whiskers, but this is a giant no-no. Trimming whiskers mutes their expression, dims their perceptions, and in general, discombobulates cats and annoys them.

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Keeping Your Cat Cool in the Summer

Cats and hot weather don't always go well together.

During the summer months, cats are just as at risk of dehydration and heatstroke as the rest of us.

These are serious conditions that can lead to illness and even death. Here are some steps on how to cool your cat down and how to keep your cat cool in hot weather.

Make sure your cat has plenty of water.

It’s common sense but you should check your cat’s water bowl regularly and fill it up whenever it’s low. Cats can’t survive for long without it.

Ensure there’s a shaded spot in your garden or yard.

If you have an outdoor cat and there are no naturally occurring shady spots in your garden, create one by placing some cloth or cardboard over an area to keep the sun out. Also, make sure you check outdoor buildings like sheds and greenhouses before shutting them as cats often get locked in accidentally overnight.

Brush your cat daily.

Matted hair traps heat so give them a daily groom if possible. This is especially important for long-haired cats.

Keep cats out of conservatories and greenhouses.

These areas can get dangerously hot even when the weather just feels warm. Bear in mind that they both exclude cooling breezes and magnify the heat. Cats are also prone to getting accidentally trapped in conservatories and greenhouses (curiosity truly can kill the cat).

Use damp towels to cool down your cat.

The warmest part of a cat’s body is their tummies, the pads of their paws, their armpits, under their chin and on the outside of their ears. Although most cats hate getting wet, try dampening a cloth with cold water and gently stroking your cat with it from their head and down their back.

Keep your cat calm.

A very active cat that is running around on a hot day will quickly become exhausted and dehydrated. Encourage your cat to relax when temperatures outside are soaring.

Create a retreat.

Cats are clever when it comes to comfort and they will seek out places such as the bath or sink as these often stay cool even when it’s hot outside. You could also try creating a cool and darkened indoor retreat for them to sleep in and feel safe. A top tip is to place a cardboard box on its side and position it somewhere cool and quiet in the house, such as behind a chair or on a cool surface like a wooden floor. Line it with a breathable natural fabric such as a cotton towel.

Keep outdoors cats indoors.

If temperatures really soar, then it’s worth considering keeping your cat inside during the hottest hours of the day.

Take care in the car.

It’s less common for cats to travel in cars than dogs, but they are just as susceptible to the risks. If you are taking your cat to the vets or a cat show, for example, never leave them in the car. Always make sure their carriers are secure, shaded and allow air to circulate. Solid plastic boxes with a secure wire mesh door are preferable.

Encourage cool play.

Ice cubes are a great way for cats to play and keep cool at the same time. Put a few on the floor so they can chase them as they scatter around the floor. Perhaps even consider flavoring the ice with a hint of chicken stock to encourage their interest.

Close the curtains.

Things that keep you cool will also benefit your cat — keeping curtains or blinds closed will keep the sun out.

Watch out for signs of heat stroke.

Although this generally only occurs on really hot days, it’s worth being aware of. Symptoms of heat stroke can include agitation, stretching out and breathing rapidly, extreme distress, skin hot to the touch, glazed eyes, vomiting and drooling. If you’re at all worried about your cat, contact your vet immediately.

Circulate cool air.

Open the windows, turn on a box fan or keep air conditioning at a reasonable temperature. Your cat will appreciate having a cool place to relax indoors if it’s scorching outside.

Cats and hot weather could mean sunburn.

Don’t forget cats are susceptible to sunburn, particularly those with white ears and noses. This can lead to painful blistering and sores, and long-term exposure can lead to skin cancers. It is possible to buy pet sunscreen to apply to the hairless areas on the end of the ears and nose. It’s also advisable to keep white-faced cats indoors during the heat of the afternoon.

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Simple tips on how to pet proof your garden

How do I create a pet-friendly garden or yard?

Your garden is the perfect place to enjoy with your pets. However, while you may be in the safety of your home, there are a number of hazards present in your garden which could harm your pet.

Here are a few cat and dog-friendly garden ideas to help protect your garden and keep your pet safe.

Raise your flower beds

Raising your flower beds help keep dogs out of flowerbeds and protect your more delicate plants. For areas where dogs and children will be rough housing, choose tougher, hardy plants or shrubs that can withstand a bit of rough-n-tumble.

Identify toxic plants

There are quite a few plants out there that are toxic to animals, so make sure that your garden only contains cat and dog-friendly plants and flowers if you are to leave them left to their own devices in your garden. Common toxic plants include: crocuses, azaleas, bleeding heart (dicentra), box, bluebells, broom, cyclamen, daffodils, dieffenbachia, hyacinth bulbs, mistletoe, yew, onions, and rhubarb. Although most plants are not attractive to pets, puppies and kittens are especially inquisitive and dogs can chew on sticks where you were pruning.

Secure fencing or enclosure

Ensure that your fencing is secure and without gaps or holes to prevent little escape artists. Consider your pet’s habits as well. Do they tend to dig? If so, give them an area to dig in and encourage him to use this area by hiding toys or treats, rather than your nicely cared for lawn. For cats, consider planting cat nip (Nepeta cataria) or cat grass that is safe for them to chew on.

Pet-friendly garden checklist

- Clear pathways

- Raise flower beds

- Secure fencing

- Provide shade

- Store chemicals and fertilizers in a safe place

- Identify toxic plants

- Keep compost out of reach

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