Tips For Bringing Home a New Rescue Dog

Bringing home a shelter dog that you adopt may be a rescued stray or a dog that someone has voluntarily surrendered for adoption. Once a stray, a rescued canine is a special animal that needs time and space, patience, and understanding.

The first few days in your home are special and critical for a pet. Your new dog will be confused about where they are and what to expect from you. Setting up some clear structure with your family for your dog will be paramount in making as smooth a transition as possible.

Bringing a pup home, they need more than just a bed and a food bowl to thrive. They also need constant care and attention. While a pup's first night at home may require a lot of work initially, it’s well worth the effort down the road. Establishing good habits in those first weeks will lay the groundwork for a lifetime of happiness for you and your dog. Remember, you have a responsibility to help your pup grow into a happy and healthy dog. Here are some tips to help first-time dog owners get started:

Before You Bring Your Dog Home

  • Determine where your dog will be spending most of their time. Because your new dog will be under a lot of stress with the change of environment (from a shelter or foster home to your house), they may forget any housebreaking (if any) they've learned. Often a kitchen or tiled-space will work best for easy clean-up.

  • If you plan on crate training your dog, be sure to have a crate set up and ready to go for when you bring your new dog home.

  • Dog-proof the area where your dog will spend most of their time during the first few months. This may mean taping loose electrical cords to baseboards; storing household chemicals on high shelves; removing plants, rugs, and breakables; setting up the crate, and installing baby gates.

  • Training your dog will start the first moment you have them. Take time to create a vocabulary list everyone will use when giving your dog directions. This will help prevent confusion and help your dog learn their commands more quickly and easily.

  • Bring an ID tag with your phone number on it with you when you pick up your dog so that they have an extra measure of safety for the ride home and the first few uneasy days. If your pet is microchipped, be sure to register your contact information with the chip’s company, if the rescue or shelter did not already do so.

The First Few Days

  • We know moving is stressful — and your new dog feels the same way! Give them time to acclimate to your home and family before introducing them to strangers. Make sure children know how to approach the dog without overwhelming them.

  • When you pick up your dog, remember to ask what and when they were fed. Replicate that schedule for at least the first few days to avoid gastric distress. If you wish to switch to a different brand, do so over a period of about a week by adding one part new food to three parts of the old for several days; then switch to half new food, half old, and then one part old to three parts new.

  • On the way home, your dog should be safely secured, preferably in a crate. Some dogs find car trips stressful, so having them in a safe place will make the trip home easier for them and you.

  • Once home, take them to their toileting area immediately and spend a good amount of time with them so they will get used to the area and relieve themselves. Even if your dog does relieve themselves during this time, be prepared for accidents. Coming into a new home with new people, new smells and new sounds can throw even the most housebroken dog off-track, so be ready just in case.

  • From there, start your schedule of feeding, toileting, and play/exercise. From Day One, your dog will need family time and brief periods of solitary confinement. Don’t give in and comfort them if they whine when left alone. Instead, give them attention for good behavior, such as chewing on a toy or resting quietly.

  • For the first few days, remain calm and quiet around your dog, limiting too much excitement (such as the dog park or neighborhood children). Not only will this allow your dog to settle in easier, but it will also give you more one-on-one time to get to know them and their likes/dislikes.

  • If your rescue came from another home, objects like leashes, hands, rolled-up newspapers and magazines, feet, chairs, and sticks are just some of the pieces of “training equipment” that may have been used on this dog. Words like “come here” and “lie down” may bring forth a reaction other than the one you expect. Or maybe they led a sheltered life and was never socialized to children or sidewalk activity. This dog may be the product of a never-ending series of scrambled communications and unreal expectations that will require patience on your part.

  • Keep your pup off balconies, elevated porches, and decks. Keep all cleaning supplies, detergents, bleach, and other chemicals and medicines out of the pup's reach, preferably on high shelves. Remove poisonous houseplants, such as amaryllis, mistletoe, holly, or poinsettia, or keep them in hanging baskets up high, where your puppy cannot reach them.

  • Keep toilet lids closed, unplug electrical cords and remove them from the floor, and keep plastic bags and ribbons out of your pup's reach.

In The Following Weeks:

  • People often say they don’t see their dog’s true personality until several weeks after adoption. Your dog may be a bit uneasy at first as they get to know you. Be patient and understanding while also keeping to the schedule you intend to maintain for feeding, walks, etc. This schedule will show your dog what is expected of them as well as what they can expect from you.

  • After discussing it with your veterinarian to ensure your dog has all the necessary vaccines, you may wish to take your dog to group training classes or the dog park. Pay close attention to your dog’s body language to be sure they are having a good time and is not fearful (or a dog park bully).

  • To have a long and happy life together with your dog, stick to the original schedule you created, ensuring your dog always has the food, potty time, and attention they need. You’ll be bonded in no time.

  • If you encounter behavior issues you are unfamiliar with, ask your veterinarian for a trainer recommendation. Select a trainer who uses positive reinforcement techniques to help you and your dog overcome these behavior obstacles.

  • Bring your dog to the veterinarian for regular checkups. Talk to your veterinarian about any signs of illness that you should watch out for during your pup's first few months, especially if they are under a year old.

  • Ensure your dog receives proper nutrition. Just like a child, your dog also needs complete and balanced nutrition to help them grow properly. In fact, the first year of your pet's life is critical in ensuring the proper growth of their bones, teeth, muscles, and fur. As a growing animal, they will require more calories than an adult dog. Speak with your veterinarian for the best feeding schedule and diet and nutrition for your pet. Never feed your dog bones, table scraps, or big snacks in between meals.

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Road Safety and Traveling with Pets

A study provided by Volvo Car USA and The Harris Poll revealed that allowing pets to roam unrestrained on road trips led to significantly more unsafe driving behaviors, more time spent distracted, and increased stress on both the drivers and their pets.

Some of their findings include:

  • 4 in 10 millennials choose a weekend getaway with their dog than their partner

  • 32% of pet owners have left a dog at home because they felt their car was not safe enough

  • 77% of Americans say people don't take vehicular dog safety seriously enough

It’s well established by now that our pets are essential members of the family, but many pet owners aren’t keeping their safety in mind when driving with them too. Volvo’s report followed 15 drivers and their dogs for more than 30 hours on the road to examine how driving with an unrestrained pet affected driving behavior vs. when an owner used a restraint (pet seat belts, harnesses, crates, carriers, etc).

What Happens With Pets Allowed to Roam Freely

Unsafe driving behaviors more than doubled. 649 instances while unrestrained vs. 274 while restrained. This includes climbing on a driver’s lap or hanging their head out of the window.

Time spent with drivers distracted more than doubled. 3hrs 39 mins spent unrestrained vs. 1hr 39 restrained. This includes dogs jumping from seat to seat or taking the drivers’ eyes off of the road.

Stress on both drivers and pets increased. Heart rates were likely increased for both people and pets. Unrestrained dogs measured a heart rate 7 beats per minute faster. Drivers felt calmer when dogs were buckled in, with heart rates dropping as much as 28 and 34 beats per minute.

The study further illustrates the dangers to all passengers, human and canine, when pets are not restrained. While pets roaming around the car can be cute and convenient, it poses serious risk for both drivers and their pets, both in terms of causing distractions and increasing the chances of serious injury in the event of an accident.

How to assure a safer road trip with pets

  1. Don’t drive with your pet in the front seat. In the event of a collision, a dog or cat can be thrown from the seat into the windshield, even if restrained. Unless the passenger side airbag is disengaged, the airbag deployment can be dangerous to a small pet.

  2. Never drive with your pet on your lap. It is not only a serious distraction to driving, bu the pet can get caught under the steering wheel and cause and accident or can be projected forward in the event of a collision.

  3. Never drive with your pet unrestrained. In addition to being a distraction, an abrupt can cause the pet to fall quickly and cause soft tissue injury or worse. In the event of an accident, pets can jump from the vehicle and go into moving traffic and be hit by other vehicles or get lost in an unfamiliar area.

  4. Never allow your pet to lean out of a car window. Debris can be forced into their eyes and cause abrasions or punctures to the cornea / eye, which can result in blindness.

  5. Never leave your dog unattended in a vehicle. Depending on the breed, level of anxiety, and ambient temperature, some people may be tempted to keep their pet in the car while running a short errand. Even in cooler months, never leave your dog unattended in your vehicle, no matter how short of a period, to avoid extreme temperatures and heat stroke / hypothermia.

With these tips in mind, we wish everyone safe, future road trips with their pets!


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Why You Should Routinely Clean Your Pet’s Food and Water Bowls

Did you know your pet's food and water bowls are a hot spot of risk? Dirty food and water bowls can lead to parasites, affecting your pets and household. In the context of hygiene, pet food bowls are definitely an important part of your cleaning routine to be meticulous about.

We will cover a variety of things:

Good Hygiene & Safety Measures

4 Ways Your Dog’s Water Can Make Them Sick

Determining the right bowls for your pet

Where Do the Bugs Come From?

Zoonotic diseases are diseases that normally infect an animal, but poses a risk to people.

The most common zoonoses with regard to food and water bowls are salmonella, campylobacter, and worms.

These bugs have different mechanisms of causing infection, but they can all be shed into the environment through feces and travel indoors on the pet’s paws or coat.

When your pet licks their fur and then eats from a bowl, this can spread infection onto an object you touch. When you pick up the bowl, you run the risk of getting that same bug on your hands.

Also, with salmonella, the food itself may contain bacteria, with raw meat and eggs posing a special risk. We normally rely on thorough cooking to kill salmonella, so feeding a raw diet to your pet increases the risk.

Food Hygiene

Knowing raw meat could contain salmonella should make you think twice about where you store it.

It should be refrigerated (below 40° F) to slow down the growth of contaminating bacteria. Avoid storing raw meat or any pet food immediately beside human food. Make sure it’s securely wrapped and put in a different section of the fridge whenever possible.

The longer food sits in the open at room temperature, the greater the chance of bacterial contamination and multiplication. With this in mind, serve only the portion your pet can eat in one go so that food isn’t left sitting around. To streamline this and avoid the risks, buy packs of moist food in smaller sizes so you can throw unopened food away rather than store open sachets for days.

Related: Salmonella Infection in Pets & People and Zoonotic Diseases

What’s the Safest Way to Wash Bowls?

Wash them every day: Rinse them under running water and either hand-wash them in hot soapy water or put them on the top rack of the dishwasher (so the dishwasher’s heat doesn’t melt plastic dishes).

When hand-washing, do the pet’s dishes last, using a separate sponge or scourer kept just for the pet’s things. Make the water as hot as you can stand without burning yourself and use liquid or detergent soap. Rinse them well — your pets won’t enjoy a soapy aftertaste, and there’s a slim chance it could make them ill.

Fresh drinking water must be available for your pet at all times, so have at least 2 sets of everything so you have one bowl that’s clean and full of water for your pet while you are cleaning the other one.

Other Safety Measures

Always keep separate utensils for the pet’s food, such as serving spoons, forks, or scoops. Never use the pet’s things (toys, bowls, etc.) as a scoop.

Although some pets have nasty tummy upsets as a result of salmonella and campylobacter—not all do. Some pets are carriers, meaning the bug is in their system—they’re not ill, but they excrete it in their waste. Some of those bacteria (and also worm eggs) get onto the pet’s coat and then onto your hands when you stroke them. Delightful imagery, right? Wash! Your! Hands!


4 Ways Your Dog’s Water Can Make Them Sick

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Your dog’s water bowl is the 3rd most germ-laden place in the house!

We all know clean and fresh water is vital for good health. With this in mind, you probably top up the bowl every time it goes down.

But as it happens, this isn’t sufficient to ensure good health. Merely topping up the water level does nothing to control harmful bacteria or even toxins that can be lurking in the water. Not only are these bugs unpleasant, but also they can cause illness in people, especially those with weak immune systems. So what bugs could be lurking in your pet's water bowl? Surprisingly, quite a few!

1. Giardia

This single-celled parasite may be better known to you as “traveler’s diarrhea.” It can infect people too—not just your pets.

Giardia is shed in feces inside a hardy oocyst. The latter is tough and can survive for long periods of time in warm, humid conditions, and thrives in water.

When a dog drinks infected water, the parasite passes into its gut. Some dogs show no symptoms, but others can develop sickness and weight loss in addition to diarrhea.

A diagnosis is made by examining a fecal sample under a microscope. Most cases respond well to 3-10 days of medication tailored to your pet.

Related: How do pets and people become infected with Giardia?

2. Cryptosporidium

Cryptosporidium is similar to giardia but a whole lot tougher. It’s so tough that it can survive chlorine treatment. Similar to giardia, oocysts are passed in feces that, if they get into the water, are a source of infection for animals and birds.

  • Your vet will prepare a treatment of fenbendazole or metronidazole to kill the parasite in the gut.

  • Bathe and shampoo the dog on the last day of treatment to wash away any oocysts clinging to the coat. Not doing so risks reinfection should the dog lick their fur.

Related: What Can I Catch From My Dog?

3. Leptospirosis

Leptospirosis is a particularly nasty infection with the potential to kill. It’s also a devious infection because signs can range from mild stomach upsets that last for weeks to months to an acute liver and kidney failure that are fatal in hours.

Other symptoms include:

  • Fever

  • Muscle weakness

  • Blood in the urine

  • Loss of appetite

  • Vomiting

  • Diarrhea

  • Collapse due to organ failure

Leptospirosis can be spread by rat urine and especially loves water sources such as standing water, puddles, and birdbaths. The unpredictable nature of leptospirosis means prevention is the best policy.

Luckily, there are vaccines available for your dog. If you live in a risk area for lepto, then your vet will advise giving the vaccine. A word of caution, though: The vaccine must be given yearly, as immunity is often gone completely 12 months after the previous dose.

Humans, however, don’t yet have a vaccine. Did you know pets can pass lepto to people? If your dog shows similar symptoms to those above and you feel unwell, see your physician as a matter of urgency.

Related: You and Your Pet Are at Risk For Leptospirosis

4. Blue-Green Algae

You may be aware that dogs shouldn’t swim in water with an obvious algal bloom—but do you know why?

Cyanobacteria, also known as blue-green algae, are a toxin-producing form of bacteria. This toxin can affect any mammal (yes, including people), causing nerve and liver damage.

Signs of toxicity include:

  • Weakness

  • Muscle tremors

  • Drooling

  • Vomiting

  • Diarrhea

  • Breathing difficulties

  • Collapse and death

There is no antidote to blue-green algae poisoning. Treatment includes rinsing out the stomach to remove contamination and supportive care with intravenous fluids.

So don’t let your dog swim in dirty water or drink from containers of “old” water — give them the fresh stuff.

Related: How Red Tide Affects Your Pet


Biofilms on Your Pet’s Water Bowl Are Bad

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Spot the biofilm in your pet’s water bowl.

Does your dog or cat have a stainless steel drinking bowl? Next time you rinse the bowl under the tap, look for that misty, smoky layer covering the metal.

If you can’t see it, try wiping your finger across the wet metal surface. If your fingertip leaves a clean streak in its path, then you’re looking at a biofilm.

The definition of a biofilm is: “A thin but robust layer of mucilage adhering to a solid surface and containing a community of bacteria and other microorganisms.” So, basically a thin layer of stickiness rich in bacteria that coats a surface. Yum!
You will have experienced a biofilm for yourself the last time you skipped brushing your teeth. Do you know that unpleasant stickiness that coated your teeth? Well, this is a biofilm made up of mucin, which is a mucous-like glue and bacteria combination.

When water comes into contact with a biofilm, it then becomes a weak bacterial soup. When the pet drinks that water, it’s tantamount to challenging their immune system to a duel. If the dog is very young, elderly, or on immune-suppressive drugs, then there’s a risk of them becoming ill.


Ditch The Plastic!

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Plastic is riddled with risks.

Plastic bowls have more than their fair share of problems when it comes to drinking water.

The plastic surface is easily scratched, which provides inviting nooks and crannies for bugs to hide in.

But more than this, plastic bowls are made of chemicals. One in particular, p-benzyl hydroquinone, inhibits the production of melanin (dark pigment).

It’s melanin that gives a black, leathery nose its rich, deep color. When a nose has regular contact with p-benzyl hydroquinone, such as when the dog drinks, it can cause depigmentation. This can lead to a black nose turning mottled or patchy-looking.

Just think—if this substance can do this to the outside of the body, what’s it doing to the inside?

We know that BPA (a chemical that hardens plastic) can interfere with the production of natural hormones in the body. In people, BPAs are linked to diabetes, impaired brain function, and cancer. When you think about how small dogs and cats are compared to people, the dose of BPA they get must be relatively higher.



Micro-Cracks Lurk in Ceramic Bowls

Surely, a good, heavy-duty ceramic bowl is better, right? Yes and no.

Ceramic bowls aren’t regulated in terms of what goes into making them. There is concern that some originating from China contain lead. Lead is a toxic substance that causes destruction of the red blood cells and nerve damage and is generally a substance best avoided.

In addition, the glaze on a ceramic bowl is subject to microfractures. This is called “crazing” within the glaze and can be seen on a microscopic level.

Scientists investigating biofilms found them to be just as bad on ceramic bowls as plastic. They suspect this ultra-fine crazing somehow provides “grip” for the microfilm to stick to.


Stainless Steel Is Best

The hands-down winner when it comes to drinking bowls is stainless steel. However, this is only if they are washed regularly, preferably on a daily basis.

Even a stainless steel bowl builds up a biofilm if it’s not washed properly. Get into the habit of washing your dog’s water bowl daily, preferably with hot, soapy water or by putting it through the dishwasher.

Don’t be tempted to merely top up the water level— this is feeding the bacterial soup. For optimal health for your pets (and family) choose stainless steel and empty it out daily, wash it with hot, soapy water, rinse and fill with fresh water.


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Dealing With a Shedding Dog

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Dog shedding can be frustrating for all of us, no matter how much we love our dogs. The mess of dog hair can be enough to drive dog owners nuts. All dogs shed to some degree, with the exception of completely hairless dogs. Certain breeds (so-called hypoallergenic dogs) shed very little, while others (namely heavily double-coated breeds) shed large amounts.

Year-Round Shedding

All animals with hair shed on a regular basis. This is part of the natural life cycle of hair shafts within the follicles. All hair shafts go through phases of growth and shedding. The phases affect the rate of hair growth and will vary by breed, age, hormones, environment and overall health of the dog. These factors also contribute to the length and texture of the hair, though genetics is the predominant factor.

Dogs with continuously growing hair, like Poodles and Yorkshire Terriers, have hair shafts with longer life spans and shed very little. On the other hand, dogs like Labradors and Huskies have a shorter hair shaft lifespan and more abundant undercoats, resulting in greater shedding.

Shedding Season

In general, most dogs will shed extra during spring and fall. Most dogs have two coats; they have undercoats and top coats. The top coat is what you see and feel on the outside. The undercoat is made up of secondary hairs that grow around the primary hairs and tend to be shorter and softer. Seasonal shedding occurs as a result of temperature change. This process is sometimes called "blowing coat." When the weather warms, dogs shed their old winter undercoats to make way for a lighter summer coat. Then, when it begins to get cool again, dogs shed their lighter undercoats and grow thicker, warmer coats for winter.

Not all coat types are affected the same way by temperature changes. For example, dogs like Bichons and Shih Tzus have less undercoat, so they shed less when seasons change. The old coat must still be removed by grooming the dogs. However, dogs like Newfoundlands and Malamutes have heavy, thick undercoats that make shedding much more obvious. Basic brushing is important for both coat types.

Other Reasons for Shedding

Your dog's health can affect the shedding rate, so it is important to take note of unexplained excessive shedding. Skin problems, endocrine diseases, nutritional or vitamin deficiencies, and other metabolic disorders can cause hair loss or change the rate of hair growth. It is important to contact your veterinarian if the rate of shedding seems unusual for your dog. Keep your dog healthy with routine vet visits and proper nutrition. Contact your vet immediately if you notice any signs of illness.

Get Control Over Shedding

There's no way to completely stop shedding. It's a healthy and natural process that is necessary for dogs. Shaving your dog down is not a good idea, as it can interfere with your dog's natural self-cooling and self-warming mechanism. In the long run, it will not make shedding occur any less. In rare cases, the hair in shaved areas will grow back abnormally or not at all. The key to preventing excessive shedding is to keep up with it with brushing.

Routine grooming is absolutely essential for all dogs. Brushing or combing your dog helps to remove dead hairs before they can fall on your carpet, bedding, and upholstery. It will also prevent those dead hairs from forming mats on your dog's coat that can eventually harm the skin. Brushing also distributes the natural, healthy oils produced by the skin throughout the hair coat. Using the right grooming tools can make a great difference. For heavy shedders, a special shedding tool like the FURminator can work wonders. For some coat types, the dead hairs don't shed as much, but they cause the dog's coat to appear ragged and can eventually become matted. Some owners prefer to take these dogs to a professional groomer periodically for coat care. For some coat types, hand-stripping is a technique that is often preferred over trimming the dog's hair.

Managing the Aftermath of Shedding in Your Home

Shedding makes a mess, no doubt about it. As a dog owner, you have probably come to terms with the fact that regular house cleaning is the norm, especially during shedding season. The key is to remove hair before it has a chance to embed itself into your carpet and upholstery. Keeping a pet hair tape roller around for touch-ups throughout the day is an excellent idea.

For a deeper cleaning of upholstery and small areas, consider using a handheld vacuum designed to pick up pet hair, like the Dyson DC31 Animal. When it comes to cleaning carpets, Panasonic's Pet-Friendly JetSpin Cyclone does the job well. For non-carpeted floors, some excellent options include the Swiffer, the Fur-Be-Gone Broom, and similar style products.


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Keep pet birds away from these household toxins: teflon, avocados, lead, and zinc!

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Did you know these three common household toxins—Teflon™, avocado, and heavy metals—present deadly dangers to your feathered friends?

Teflon™

The chemical name is polytetrafluroethylene, but most people know it by the tradename Teflon™. This compound likely lurks in your household not only as the lining of nonstick pans but also as a coating on heating elements, irons, ovens, and hair dryers.

When these appliances are heated, they can release a clear, odorless toxic gas. Unfortunately, most birds that inhale the toxic fumes will die suddenly or after a short course of having trouble breathing.

The products often state that very high temperatures—greater than 500° F—must be reached to release the toxic fumes, but factors such as imperfections in the coating can allow these fumes to be released at much lower temperatures. Birds are particularly sensitive to these fumes, so even a little bit can be deadly.

The best way to ensure that your bird will not suffer from such toxicity is to be educated about what household products are dangerous and to limit your bird’s exposure to them.

Teflon™ gas is a silent, but rapid killer. All bird owners should be educated about this household toxin. If they notice signs of difficulty breathing, including open-beaked breathing, sounds while breathing, a tail bob, and exaggerated chest movement while taking breaths, they should rush the bird to the nearest veterinary emergency room.

Veterinarians can attempt to save the bird with aggressive therapies, such as administering supplemental oxygen and controlling inflammation in the lungs. Affected birds are at risk for developing secondary infections, so they may also be given antibiotics and antifungal medications.

Because of the severity of Teflon™ toxicity, preventing exposure is the best option. The best way to ensure that your bird will not suffer from Teflon™ toxicity is to be educated about what products in your home have Teflon™ and limit exposure to your birds, particularly when those products are being heated.

Some households with avian family members will choose to remove all items that they know have Teflon™ coating and use pans with other non-stick coatings, such as ceramic. Other families will limit exposure by ensuring that their feathered family members are in a distant and well-ventilated room when any Teflon™-coated structures—including the oven—are being used.

Avocado

Avocados contain persin, which is toxic to the heart in several species, but not humans. All parts of the plant—skin, meat, pit, leaves—contain the toxin. The most common signs of persin toxicity in birds are collapse, lethargy, heavy breathing, and sudden death.

A bird that has ingested avocado should be rushed to the nearest emergency veterinary facility. If the avocado was eaten very recently, it may be possible to remove it from the bird’s crop— a pouch in the esophagus where food is stored—before it moves to the stomach and is digested.

Other emergency treatments include giving activated charcoal to bind the toxin and prevent absorption and giving cardiac medications to address any negative effects of the toxin. Again, the best treatment is prevention.

Heavy Metals

Lead and zinc, which are toxic to birds, are heavy metals commonly found in household items. Lead is not a naturally occurring element in the body, and when lead is introduced it interferes with many physiological processes, causing damage. Zinc, unlike lead, is required by the body for the normal function of certain enzymes. However, high concentrations of zinc can cause illness and toxicity, and birds are far more sensitive to the toxic effects of zinc than are humans.

Household sources of lead include older paint, drinking water in homes with lead pipes, food/liquid stored in crystal, stained glass, and other items containing solder, some jewelry, and lead fishing weights. Common sources of zinc include vitamins and supplements for humans, linoleum, galvanized metal, drinking water in homes with zinc pipes, some metallic toys, and some rubber items.

Birds with heavy metal toxicity may display a variety of signs, depending upon the amount of metal they have ingested. Typically the clinical signs are vague and include lethargy, fluffed behavior, and decreased appetite. Birds may also show signs of gastrointestinal tract disease, including diarrhea and regurgitation, as well as seizures and other neurologic signs. Anemia and kidney disease can also result from toxicity.

If you know that your bird has ingested a metal item or you are concerned that they have eaten something in your home that may have heavy metal in it, promptly bring your bird to an emergency veterinary clinic.

The best-case scenario is that the item can be removed from the bird’s gastrointestinal tract before the metal is absorbed. If your bird is acting sick in any way, a visit to your veterinarian should be your first step.

The best way to ensure that your bird will not suffer from toxicity is to be educated about what household products are dangerous and to limit your bird’s exposure to them.

If you have any questions about compounds that are toxic to birds, contact your local veterinarian.


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