My dog has a growth. What do I do?

Lipoma in Dogs

Lipomas are subcutaneous (underneath the skin) masses or tumors that develop commonly in dogs. They are usually soft, with limited mobility under the skin. The overlying skin is usually not affected. Over time they can grow larger and can impede movement if they are located between the legs or low on the chest. Most dogs that develop a lipoma will develop multiple tumors. But, it is important to recognize that additional masses do not necessarily indicate malignancy or metastasis. Since other cutaneous masses may appear similar to lipomas, it is recommended that every mass be checked individually.

Another subclassification of benign lipomas is infiltrative lipomas. These typically invade locally into muscle tissue and fascia and may need to be removed.

Liposarcomas, on the other hand, are malignant and can spread (metastasize) to the lungs, bone, and other organs. These tumors are rare but are indicative of the importance of examining all subcutaneous masses respectively.

Symptoms

Most lipomas feel soft and movable under the skin. They usually do not make pets uncomfortable unless they are in a location where normal movement is disrupted, like in the axillary region under the front leg (armpit). Often they are located on the belly or trunk but can be anywhere on the dog’s body. Most dogs with one lipoma will eventually develop several.

Diagnosis

Your veterinarian will do a complete physical exam, checking for all palpable masses. A fine needle aspirate will indicate whether the mass is a benign lipoma, or whether it is a more worrisome masses that is mimicking a lipoma. If the aspirate is inconclusive, surgical removal and histopathology may be necessary to arrive at a clear diagnosis.

Infiltrative lipomas may require computed tomography (CT) or magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) to adequately understand the mass and tissue location. This can be important information for the surgeon to decide how much of the mass can be removed and what approach needs to be employed for surgery.

Treatment

Most dogs will not need to have their lipomas removed. However, if the lipoma is restricting movement in any way it will be necessary for your dog's comfort to remove the lipoma. In addition, if any diagnostics indicate the mass may be a more aggressive tumor, it may be advised to have the mass removed while your dog is still under anesthesia. Removal tends to be a simple process if the mass is small because lipomas are benign, meaning that they have not invaded the body, and a large margin is not needed.

However, one type of lipoma, the infiltrative lipoma, can require a more complex procedure. As the name implies, infiltrative lipomas invade into muscle tissue and fascia and can make complete surgical excision difficult. Radiation therapy has been used for infiltrative lipomas and may be used alone, or in conjunction with surgical excision.

Living and Management

Other subcutaneous masses, such as mast cell tumors, can mimic the appearance of a lipoma. It is vital to make sure that every mass is evaluated individually in the event that one of the masses is malignant. You will need to continue to monitor your dog's lipomas, noting any changes in size, number, or location.

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My Dog Gets Anxious Going to the Vet

In a recent study released by the American Veterinary Medical Association (reported by NewSTAT), dogs undergo considerable stress and anxiety when they go for veterinary visits.

The study looked at 36 seemingly normal, healthy client-owned dogs and measured a number of parameters when the dogs were at home and again at the veterinary facility. This study evaluated changes in vital signs when dogs traveled between the home environment and the veterinary environment. Differences were recorded between dogs in the two environments.

These dogs had their respiratory rate, pulse rate, rectal temperature, and systolic arterial blood pressure measured in their home environment. They were then taken to the veterinary hospital and the measurements were repeated. The changes between the two environments were significant.

Dog anxiety at the veterinarian’s office

According to aaha.org, significant differences in blood pressure, rectal temperature, and pulse rate were observed between measurements obtained in the two environments. “Mean blood pressure increased by 16%..., rectal temperature increased (by < 1%)…, and pulse rate increased by 11% …. The number of dogs panting in the hospital environment (63%) was significantly higher than the number of dogs panting at home (17%).” Panting is frequently considered an indication of stress.

Similar studies of human patients have revealed a similar “white coat syndrome;” an elevation of blood pressure limited to the doctor’s office.

While more studies are indicated to evaluate the significance of these seemingly stress-related findings, it would appear that cats are not the only pets stressed when traveling to the veterinarian. Of course, routine veterinary visits for your pet are no less important than your own visits to the doctor. Therefore, efforts should be made to reduce the stress associated with veterinary visits.

Help your dog avoid anxiety at the veterinarian’s office

One important tip to reducing the stress of a vet visit is centered around car rides.

Steps to get your pet accustomed to car rides:

1. Some dogs get upset just getting in the car. Remember, they haven’t always had a positive experience. Begin by just putting your dog in the car with you for a few minutes. Don’t even start the car, just speak softly and pet your dog. Then let your dog out of the car and give them a treat. Repeat this several times daily, for a few days, until they associate getting into the car with the treat.

2. When you're both comfortable in the car, start the engine. Again, just sit there reassuring your dog; give them a treat. Repeat this for a couple of days.

3. Next, drive around a block or two and take your dog home for a treat. As your dog gets more comfortable, lengthen the drives and end them with a reward—a treat, a walk—whatever your dog seems to enjoy. A few days of this will show your dog that there are good things associated with the car.

4. Drive to the veterinary clinic, but don’t take your dog in. just wait in the car and drive back home. You can walk the dog on a leash, around the parking lot, or just take the dog in and give them a reward.

5. Schedule an appointment and take the dog into the exam room—no shots, no treatments— just a reward.

6. Always end your visit to the veterinarian with a treat and, on occasion, a play period.

Granted, this will take some time and commitment, but it will do a lot to eliminate the fear factor.

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When to Take Your Cat to the Animal Emergency Room

Some sure signs to bring your cat to the ER include:

• Difficulty breathing (like open-mouth breathing, panting, or a respiratory rate over fifty breaths/minute [Tip: count the number of breaths in fifteen seconds and multiple by four to get the total breaths per minute]).

• Hiding (under the bed, in the closet)

• Not moving

• Straining or making multiple trips to the litter box

• Excessive grooming “back there” with the penis sticking out (dangerous and is typically a feline urethral obstruction or urinary blockage)

• Lack of urine in the litter box for more than 36 hours

• Painful when picking up

• Profuse vomiting (more than 2-3 times in a night)

• Excessive drooling

• Sitting over the water bowl and not moving

• Seizuring or twitching

• Any kind of trauma

• Any kind of poisoning

• Any string hanging out of any orifice (Tip: please don’t pull! Leave all orifices to veterinary professionals).

While this list isn’t complete, it’s a good initial guideline.

If you want to be the financially savvy owner, it is best to go to your regular veterinarian before you end up with a more expensive emergency room visit. In other words, if you even have an inkling that something is wrong, better to go to your pet's veterinarian first rather than wait until Sunday night when your cat is really in dire straits (leading to a more expensive hospitalization).

When in doubt, call your veterinarian or an emergency clinic for counsel on whether to bring your cat in for an emergency visit. In fact, when in doubt, you can even go into the emergency room and potentially asked to be triaged to stabilize your pet's condition. Not all clinics will offer this, but it is worth asking. This is particularly important if you’re not sure if your cat has a urinary obstruction. Simply allow the emergency veterinarian to cop a feel of your cat’s bladder, and voila… if they don’t think your cat is blocked, they may “triage” you away to your family vet the next day.

When in doubt, it’s always safer to heed the side of caution. You won’t regret playing it too safe with your feline friend.

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Flea Allergies in Cats and Dogs

Fleabites make most pets itch. But did you know—some cats and dogs are allergic to the pests! Your doctor may call this flea allergy dermatitis (FAD) or fleabite hypersensitivity. If your pet has a flea allergy, even one or two flea bites can make your pet's life miserable.

Many cats and dogs are allergic to fleas. In fact, FAD is the most common skin disease in dogs in the U.S. Flea allergies often spike in the summer, and pets that have seasonal allergies are more likely to have an allergic reaction to fleabites, but any pet can get FAD.

Spot the Signs

When a flea bites your dog or cat to draw blood, it injects saliva into your pet’s skin. Flea saliva is irritating to most animals, including humans. But the compounds in it can trigger an allergic reaction in some pets.

Everyday itching from a flea bite isn’t the same thing as a flea allergy. If your pet has FAD, the itching will be intense and last longer. Your pet may itch for up to 2 weeks after a bite and the itching will be severe and damaging to their skin.

Other signs of FAD include:

• A rash on your pet’s skin or raw, irritated, or bleeding areas on your pet’s body. Dogs usually have it near their back legs, stomach, or tail area. Cats are more likely to have it near their neck and face.

• Hair loss, especially in areas where the bites happened

• Small red or pink raised bumps that may look like pimples

• Constant itching, biting, clawing, or grooming

Help Your Pet Get Relief

Unfortunately, this isn't a one and done situation—it's a process.

Step 1: See your pet’s veterinarian. Don’t assume that because you can’t see any fleas, your dog or cat doesn’t have a flea allergy. Often, animals with one groom themselves constantly. They may remove any fleas from their bodies — but the allergic reaction from bites can last for weeks.

If your dog or cat is scratching itself, set up an appointment with your veterinarian. Fleas and flea allergies are common, but it could also be another health problem, like a tick bite. It’s important to get the right diagnosis before your pet starts any type of treatment.

A vet will check your pet’s fur and skin thoroughly for fleas and “flea dirt,” which is flea poop that looks like pepper flakes. It often turns red when it's wet. If the vet suspects another cause for your pet’s itching, they may order certain blood or skin tests to be sure. Your vet also makes sure that your dog or cat doesn’t have any open wounds. If a pet is itching or chewing on itself a lot, bacteria or yeast can get into the skin and cause an infection.

Step 2: Break the cycle. Putting an end to your pet’s flea allergy means getting rid of fleas. Though they're more common in warmer months, fleas can live year-round indoors. Once they lay eggs, new fleas hatch and then lay more eggs, which means your pet is constantly exposed.

Using year-round treatment with a flea preventative medication can help break the cycle and prevent future allergic reactions.

Topical medications and oral meds kill adult fleas. Talk to your pet’s veterinarian about which treatment is best for your pet.

Medication is only half the battle. Fleas don’t actually live on animals. They live in carpets, bedding, and other surfaces in your home and jump onto your pet to eat. That’s why it’s important to wash your bedding, your pet’s bedding, and your throw rugs with detergent and warm water.

To remove fleas, flea eggs, and larvae, vacuum your carpets, larger rugs, and chair and sofa cushions. Empty the vacuum bag or canister afterward. Make sure to do it outside, or they could get back into your living space.

You may also consider using a flea spray on your carpets and upholstered furniture. Be sure to keep your pets and your family away from sprayed areas until they’ve dried. Having fleas in teh home doesn't mean your house is dirty or that you are a bad pet owner. Fleas are attracted to food sources, which is any pet cat or dog.

Step 3: Ease the itch. Your pet’s veterinarian will recommend a topical, oral, or injected medication to ease your pet’s itching and inflammation. If your dog or cat has an infection, the veterinarian may also prescribe an antibiotic or antifungal medicine.
You may have heard that human antihistamines can treat pet allergies. The trouble is, they’re often not strong enough to ease inflammation for many pets with a flea allergy, and they don’t work at all for many animals. Talk to your vet before using them for your pet to determine the best solution and dosage if so.
At home, one of the easiest ways to help ease your dog or cat’s irritation is to give them a bath with cool water. Unless your pet hates water, this can help by making their skin feel better and removing some fleas.

Step 4: Avoid irritants. Don’t use flea shampoo or other topical flea products without talking to your pet’s veterinarian first. Flea shampoos and sprays can contain alcohol and other chemicals that can make a rash or open wounds worse!
You may have seen onion or garlic tablets marketed for pet flea relief, but they can be toxic to dogs and cats. Skip essential oils and products that contain them, too. This can cause further irritation to your pet's skin.

Step 5: Stay in touch with your pet’s veterinarian. Regular checkups are especially important for spotting infection and making sure your flea and allergy treatment plans are working.
If you have a question between scheduled visits, don’t hesitate to call your vet! It is always better to be safe than sorry. The longer something is put off because it doesn't seem serious, could end up something far worse while waiting. Early detection and treatment is of utmost importance.

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The Truth About Catnip

Catnip, catmint, catwort, field balm — it doesn't matter what you call it. Lions, tigers, panthers, and your common domestic tabby just can't seem to get enough of this fragrant herb.

Originally from Europe and Asia, minty, lemony, potent catnip — Nepeta cataria — has long been associated with cats. Even its Latin-derived cataria means "of a cat." And research shows that cats big and small adore this weedy, invasive member of the mint family. But why do they like catnip so much? Is it safe? And what does it mean if your cat doesn't like it?

The Effects of Catnip

It's genetics that determines whether your feline friend goes crazy for catnip. About one in two cats inherit a sensitivity to the herb. However, you won't know if your kitten is one of them until sometime between ages 3–6 months.

Catnip's allure is in its volatile oil, specifically one chemical in that oil — nepetalactone. Found in catnip's leaves, stems, and seeds, it only takes one or two sniffs of that wondrous oil before susceptible felines are licking, chewing, and rolling head-over-tail.

Though intense, that bliss is usually short-lived, lasting about 10 minutes for most cats. For some, the euphoria translates into aggressive playfulness. At the same time, it makes others mellow and calm. But no matter what reaction your cat has, once the pleasure passes it'll be about two hours before kitty responds to catnip again.

Catnip: Toys and Training

Because cats do respond to catnip again and again, the herb can be a powerful training aid.

Want to keep kitty from clawing furniture? Rub a scratching post with catnip to make it more appealing. Bought a new cat bed? Sprinkle a little of the herb on your cat's bed/cushion to make it more attractive to your feline friend.

You can also provide enrichment for an indoor cat by creating catnip toys. Sprinkle a bit of the herb into an old sock, then knot the top. Or just put a big pinch of catnip in a small paper bag and crush the bag into a tight ball.

The intensity of your cat's response to toys and training will be affected by the type of catnip you use. While most cats enjoy the herb dried or fresh, they're usually less interested in catnip sprays, which generally don't contain enough nepetalactone to appeal to most felines.

Fortunately for your cat, catnip —which is non-addictive and safe to eat — is easy to grow in a sunny window. You can even go so far as to create your own cat-friendly garden with one pot of catnip and one of wheat, oat, rye, or barley grass. Not only will your cat enjoy both, but having its own house plants may keep your feline friend out of yours. If you plant catnip directly in the garden, remember that, like most mints, it's a vigorous, sometimes invasive, grower.

Catnip's potency doesn't last forever; the essential oils quickly dissipate. So if you buy dried catnip for your feline friend, store what you don't use in the freezer.

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