Litter Training a Rabbit

Yes, you can litter-train your bunny. But, spaying or neutering has to come first. It is almost impossible to litter train an unspayed or unneutered rabbit. If you can’t resist letting your bunny have the run of the house immediately, be prepared to have them consider your house as one very large litter box. Once this habit is established, it is very hard to change. It is far better to spend your time in the beginning training and reap the benefits of a well-mannered bunny after the fact.

Buy the right boxes

Bunnies like to have enough room to stretch out in their boxes and, if you have a bonded pair, you have to allow enough room for both of them.

Medium to large-sized cat litter boxes are perfect. The ordinary tray-type ones will do; not the deep or covered varieties. Your bunny will probably appreciate and insist on having more than one litter location, so pick up more than one!

If you have large bunnies, cement mixing tubs are another great litter box alternative available at most large hardware stores. These are very roomy and inexpensive.

Get the right litter

There are several important bunny litter do's and don'ts when it comes to bunnies:

Do choose:

• Yesterday's News, Crown Bedding (or similar) recycled newspaper pellet litter/animal bedding

• Carefresh (or similar) paper pulp litter/animal bedding

• Woodstove pellets (these are used as fuel for woodstoves, but are actually great as bunny litter pellets.)

• Ground corncob pet litter/bedding

Always check the label. Don't buy litter that is cedar, cedar oils, zinc or the clumping clay.

Do NOT choose:

• No clay litter. This can cause serious respiratory problems.

• No Cat Works litter. This can cause zinc poisoning and death.

• No Pine or Cedar litters. These can also kill your rabbit.

Layer with Timothy Hay

You can buy Timothy Hay in bags from most pet stores, and that will do just fine. If you have a little more time, see if you can find a specialty store, feed store, or farm that sells Timothy Hay. This tends to be even yummier to discerning bunnies.

Never use hay that looks dusty or moldy or smells bad. It can kill your bunny.

Fill the litter box properly

If you've had a bunny before, you know that you can do nothing right—especially not the first time. So, it might take some trial and error to find the 'proper way' to fill the litter box (according to your bunny, that is).

Start with around one inch of litter, and cover that with Timothy Hay.

Prepare to do a little clean-up

Nobody's perfect. Your bunny will probably have a few accidents as they are learning to use the box.

Always remember: rabbits do not respond well to physical discipline. They have been designed to be easily frightened and broken; never physically discipline your rabbit. You and/or your rabbit could end up seriously hurt and your rabbit will end up terrified of you rather than your loving companion.

The most effective cleaning solution for bunny pee accidents is white vinegar. It's a good idea to get a spray bottle and fill it with white vinegar or vinegar and water. You can also use Nature's Miracle enzyme cleaner, but this is a bit more expensive.

How to litter train your bunny

1. Choose your location

While you are litter training your bunny, they will have to stay in an enclosed area. So, before you start training, choose and prepare the training area. A bathroom, utility room, or other small room without carpeting is a good place to start the training. You can also use a cage or an x-pen.

If you are training in a room with slippery floors, put a rug or towel down for the bunny to lay on.

Trim your bunny's nails. This will help them feel more comfortable on a slippery floor.

Be prepared to confine your bunny for a while. You can't let them out into any other room until they are always urinating in their box.

2. Prepare the litter box

Use 1" of litter covered with Timothy hay. Add in some of the rabbit's poops and urine-soaked paper or hay. Place the litter box wherever the bunny seems to prefer to use, which is often a corner.

3. Add bunny

When you first let your bunny into the training area, stay in the room. When they leave droppings on the floor, immediately put both bunny and the droppings in the litter box. Tell them what a good bunny they are and pet them. Spend as much time as you can with them and when you have to leave, put them back into their cage or enclosure. A baby gate (not light plastic!) works well to divide a room into a manageable space. Repeat this often until they have the training room mastered. Only then can you let them out into another room.

• Clean up accidents ASAP.

• If the rabbit likes to dig and moves the box around, you can use a large metal clamp to fix it to the side of the hutch. They can be purchased at most hardware stores. You might also drill a small hole in the side of the box and secure it with twist ties.

• Let the litter box stay a little dirty while the rabbit is learning. If you keep it too clean they will think that they are not supposed to use it. You can dispose of organic litter directly in the toilet or into the compost pile. Wonderful fertilizer is an added bonus of sharing your home with a rabbit.

4. Expand the area

After you are sure that your bunny is urinating only in the box, it's time to expand their area. Repeat step three in additional rooms.

Don't be afraid to use multiple litter boxes until your rabbit exhibits the appropriate litter box behaviors. Be sure and clean up behind any "accidents." If you witness your rabbit urinating outside their litter box, pick your rabbit up and place them in their litter box. Don't scold your rabbit, rather praise them once inside the litter box.

You can set a schedule while your rabbit is enjoying out time. Every 10 minutes place your rabbit in their litter box and praise them. Have a treat ready and offer it if they actually use the litter box. As time progresses, you can space out the amount of time between the reminder visits to their litter box. Time, patience, praise and consistent work will help your rabbit reshape their behavior.

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How to Train a Cat

Yes, you can in fact train a cat—as independent as they may be.

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Never Punish

Cats won’t learn from what some owners would consider “discipline.” Worse yet, “punishing” your cat can induce stress. This may lead to behavioral and health problems—not something you want to deal with in cat training or in general. Remember that patience and positive reinforcement are essential if you’re learning how to train a cat.

Get a clicker & treats

Commonly used as training tools for a wide variety of animals, a clicker will set you back just a couple of bucks and help you give positive reinforcement when you’re learning how to train a cat.

Tip: You can also use a regular pen with a clicky button—the important thing is to have a distinct noise you can make instantly.

Most cat training involves offering your cat a treat it likes following a click to mark the desired behavior. These tactics also work when it comes to giving your cat a pill. Without the clicker, your cat may be confused about why it’s being rewarded: If it obeys a command, hears the click, and then gets a treat, it’s more likely to catch on.

How to train a cat to come on command

Cats can learn to respond to a vocal cue and run your way. This step of how to train a cat starts by making a distinct noise before feeding—before you open a bag or can—like vocally call your cat, or click your tongue. Your pet will learn to associate that noise with something positive (food) and will eventually head to you when it hears it. Then, encourage this behavior outside of normal feeding times. Start from short distances. Make the noise, use your clicker when your cat comes, and then reward your pet with the treat. Over time, call the cat from longer distances. The ASPCA recommends up to two “cat training sessions” a day, for five minutes or less, during which you should repeat the behavior up to 20 times.

How to train a cat to use a toilet

Training a cat to use the toilet definitely takes some work, but think of the benefits: You’ll save on litter and enjoy a cleaner home. First, place a litter box adjacent to your toilet. Then gradually bring it closer and closer to the top of the seat—you might need a stool to make the process easier on the cat. Once your pet is accustomed to using a litter box on top of the toilet, transition to a special litter box that fits within the toilet itself. (Buy flushable litter, and expect spillover.) Gradually use less and less litter to get your cat accustomed to doing its business without it, and then, remove the litter box entirely.

How to train a cat to shake hands

This cat training is simpler than you might expect: Get a treat ready, then align yourself to the same level as your cat. Tap your cat’s paw while saying “shake,” and use your clicker when it moves its paw. Repeat training until your cat offers its paw in response to the “shake” command without tapping. Like the “come on command” trick, this can take a few training sessions over the course of a couple of days. Once this skill is mastered, your cat will be ready to star in internet cat memes.

How to train a cat to walk on a leash

Get a harness with a leash that attaches at the cat’s back, not its neck. Before putting it on your cat, leave it out for a few days in areas where your cat goes—like its feeding area or favorite sleeping spot, so that the animal is accustomed to the sight of it. Next, you’ll transition to draping the harness over the cat (without fully attaching it) when giving it a treat. You’ll eventually move to securing the harness around the cat without the leash—leave it on your cat for a couple of minutes at first, then increase the time over the course of a few days. Once your pet is comfortable with the harness, attach the leash to it, and let your cat wander freely inside with it. After a few days, start holding the leash during training. Then: Ease into the great outdoors! Make sure you let your cat take its time exploring a new area, and start somewhere quiet.

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Potty Train Your Puppy

When deciding how to potty train a puppy, or a newly adopted dog, you have two options— train them to relieve themselves outdoors, or inside your home on a pee pad and then transition them to the outdoors. We’ll take you through both options and give you tips to incorporate crate potty training into your plan.

How to Train a Puppy to Pee Outside

Your puppy can tell you they have to relieve themselves if you teach them a “potty cue.” Potty cues begin by showing your pet how to signal they want to go outdoors. From there, your puppy will associate the feeling of peeing with being outside of your home. Here’s how to get started!

Step 1: Teach your puppy the potty cue

Have your puppy sit by the door you want them to signal at or exit from. When your pet barks, open the door and let them out. Rather not teach your pup to bark? Try a bell. When your pet rings the bell, open the door and take them outside. Remember, the potty cue is just for going potty, don’t let your puppy play too much outside after doing their business - otherwise, they will associate the cue with getting to play outside, not just going potty.

What to do if you need to change the potty cue

So you taught your puppy to bark when they need to go to the bathroom, but now they bark nonstop. You can try teaching them a new cue like sitting at the door. You could even place a rug by the door, and train your puppy to know that when they sit on the rug, you open the door. From here, repeat steps two and three to complete your pet’s retraining.

Step 2: Determine a set potty area

Put your puppy on a leash and walk them out to the part of the yard you want your dog to relieve themselves at. Don’t continue walking. Instead, wait for your pet to relieve themselves. When your puppy does, reward them with treats and verbal praise. This will make peeing outside a positive experience. If they don’t go, take your puppy back in the house and repeat. They will catch on fast.

Step 3: Use a crate when you’re not home

When you aren’t home with your pet, confine them to an area, such as a crate. This helps limit accidents in your bedroom, living room, or any other areas when you aren’t there to hear or see the cue.

The Indoors-to-Outdoors Method

If you don’t have a yard, or your puppy is in the process of completing their shots, it may be best to begin potty training indoors and then transition your pet to the outdoors. To begin training your dog to relieve themselves in the correct place indoors, you’ll need to learn how to potty train a puppy on pads, or how to get started with crate potty training.

How to potty train a puppy on pads

Determine a confined area to begin house training—like the bathroom or the laundry room (ideally somewhere with easy to clean floors in case of accidents!). Whichever area you decide, make sure it’s puppy-proofed and remove any harmful products. Next, set up the space by covering the floor with pee pads and placing your pet’s bed in a corner of the room.

To help you get started with a routine, here are some steps you can follow:

STEP 1: Change pee pads often but place a small piece of the soiled pad on top of the clean pad in the area you want your puppy to pee. The scent reminds your puppy that this area is the bathroom.

STEP 2: Remove the pee pads closest to your pet’s bed once your puppy is peeing in the same area.

STEP 3: Continue removing the pee pads until you have removed all but one or two sheets.

When you have consistent success with your puppy only using one or two pee pads, you can gradually expand the area they have access to. If accidents begin to occur, reduce the area. For pet parents who plan to transition their puppy to an indoor or patio grass “potty,” migrate the papers near this spot. Now, you’re ready to teach your puppy a potty cue so they can relieve themselves outdoors.

Crate potty training

Before you begin crate potty training, you need the right size containment. Keep in mind your pet only needs enough space to stand up, turn around, and lie down. Any more room will encourage them to relieve themselves in one corner and sleep in another. Some crates come with dividers so you can adjust the size as they grow.

To get your puppy used to their crate, toss a treat in and allow them to go inside and come back out. Praise your puppy each time they enter. Work your way up to your pet spending 10 minutes in their crate and then longer once they’re comfortable. When your puppy associates their crate as their living space, crate potty training begins.

Instead of soiling the area where they sleep and eat, they’ll let you know they need to go. Like other potty training methods, developing a routine is key. Within fifteen minutes of eating, drinking or playing, your puppy should have the opportunity to relieve themselves. For more tips on crate potty training, check out our crate training guide.

How Long Does it Take to Potty Train a Puppy?

There is no defined timeframe when it comes to how to potty train a puppy. There are many factors that come into play, with consistency being the most important. Be sure to reward your puppy when they follow their training plan.

Dealing with accidents

Accidents will happen no matter how much you try to prevent them. It’s a matter of determining the cause and reinforcing positive behavior. Recognizing when your pet is stressed or what continually triggers accidents will help you come up with corrective measures. For cleaning up messes, be sure to give the soiled area a good cleaning. Pet-safe stain removers and odor removers are good cleaning products to have on hand.

Keep in mind that even a house-trained puppy will have accidents when out and about. To limit this behavior, keep your puppy’s schedule as consistent as possible. If you’re going on a trip or visiting friends, take your puppy on a long walk with lots of opportunities to empty their bladder beforehand. Bringing toys is another useful technique, as they can help keep your pet focused on an activity.

Potty training a puppy takes time and commitment, so don’t lose your patience. When you feel your pet is straying off course, return to the basics. Whichever method you choose, stick to it and develop a routine. With positive reinforcement, your pet will begin to recognize when they are showing good behavior. Stay prepared by shopping all the potty training supplies you’ll need!

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How to Train Your Dog to Walk on a Loose Leash

You’ve just adopted a new puppy or an older dog, and want to learn how to leash train them—one of the first, and most important dog training basics to cover.

What you will need:

• A collar or harness: buckle collar, Martingale, head halter (like the Gentle Leader or Halti), or front-clip harness (Easy-Walk or Freedom No-pull)

• A leash: 4-foot or 6-foot length (not a retractable leash)

• Treats

To start training:

1. Fill your pocket or treat pouch with treats.

2. Decide what side you’d like the dog to walk on, and hold a few treats on that side of your body. For example, if you’d like your dog to walk on the left side, hold treats in your left hand.

3. Hold your leash in the hand opposite the dog. For example, if your dog is on your left, hold the end of the leash in your right hand.  Let the rest of it hang loosely in a “J”.

4. Take a step, then stop.  It’s okay if the dog doesn’t stay in “heel” position. Feed the dog some treats from your hand, in line with the seam of your pants.  This will help you position the dog.

5. Repeat. Take step, stop, feed a treat at your side, along the seam of your pants. 

6. When the dog is looking eagerly up at you for more treats, take two steps instead of one before stopping and feeding the dog.

7. If the dog pulls ahead, stop walking immediately.  Call your dog back to you, or use the treats in your hand to lure the dog back to your side, but don't treat them yet: take two to three steps forward before feeding.  This is to prevent teaching a sequence like: “I pull ahead, I come back, I eat.” We want them to learn that walking alongside you on a loose leash makes treats happen, not pulling.

8. Gradually take more steps between each treat. You can talk to your dog to help keep their attention on you.

9. When the dog walks well on a loose leash, give this kind of walk a name. It could be “heel,” “with me,” “let’s walk,” or another word/phrase of your choice.

10. Release your dog (“all done,” “okay,” “that’ll do,” etc.) when they no longer need to walk in “heel” position.

To teach an “off-duty” walk:

This will be used in relaxed moments when the dog doesn’t need to be in “heel” position. The only rule will be, “You can’t pull forward.”

1. Pick a word to signal this new kind of walk. You might use, “free time,” or “hike,” or “at ease,” or another word of your choice, as long as it is different from your formal walk cue.

2. Decide how much leash to give your dog. If you walk your dog on a 6-foot leash, you might simply hold the loop end and let the rest hang loose. If you hold some of the leash in your hand, plan on doing so throughout the walk, rather than releasing and gathering it several times. This is to teach the dog how much leash will be available to them.

3. Give your dog the cue (“free time”) and start walking. They can sniff, change sides, look around, lie down occasionally; anything but pulling. 

4. If your dog pulls forward, stop moving and call them back toward you before starting again.

5. If your dog fixates on a person, dog or another animal, call your dog’s name and if possible, move in the opposite direction. Getting closer to the distraction will be harder, and will most likely set your dog up to pull.

6. If you’d like your dog to walk in “heel” position (due to an approaching walker, bike, etc.), bring them back to your side and cue them (“heel”). 

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The Benefits of Walking Your Dog

When you say, “It’s time to walk the dog,” many people assume that your pup needs to potty. Yes, walking the dog is essential to keeping the household carpet unblemished, but taking a stroll with your pup provides many other benefits. Walking your dog is a simple task that has a positive impact on many aspects of overall health such as—

Weight and body condition

Obesity is a major health issue, but barring medical complications, it has a reasonable solution: burn more calories than consumed. Regular exercise, like walking, is a good way to burn those excess calories and keep the pounds off both you and your dog.

Joint health

Immobility is another common health problem. Joints, even old ones, need to work. People and pets get stiff when sedentary for too long, and keeping joints in motion improves their function.

Digestive and urinary health

Regular walking helps regulate the digestive tract. Some dogs, like some people, prefer to “go” on a schedule, and providing your dog with routine trips outdoors prevents constipation. Also, when urine sits in the bladder for long periods of time, bladder infections are more likely to occur, so regular emptying keeps this part of the anatomy happy and healthy as well.

Of course, it’s important to consult your doctor and your veterinarian before embarking on an exercise program.

Can’t my dog get all of those benefits with a good run around the yard?

There are plenty of benefits to walking that goes beyond physical health. For example—

Mental health

Dogs don’t like to be bored and if you give them something constructive to do, like take a walk, they may be less likely to do something destructive, like chew the couch. Walking exercises the mind as well as the body. Watching wildlife, exploring new paths, seeing other people with their pets, and so on, is great mental stimulation for your dog that they just can’t get in the same fenced area all the time. Walking also releases excess energy and helps dogs sleep better at night.

Emotional health

You are the center of your dog’s universe and they crave your attention. What better way to spend quality time with your dog than taking a walk? Spending one-on-one time with your dog will deepen your bond and help deter annoying, attention-seeking behaviors such as excessive barking or whining.

Personal health

Many people need outside motivation to work out and may depend on an exercise buddy to get them off the couch. What happens when your exercise partner gets stuck at work or stuck in traffic or has another commitment? Your dog is only committed to one thing… you! That makes them the perfect exercise partner. They are always available and willing to accompany you on a walk.

As you can see, regular walking has health benefits for both you and your dog and will help prevent obesity, which is a significant problem in both species.

It’s estimated that 1 in 3 Americans is overweight and childhood obesity is on the rise. In a study based in Seattle and Baltimore, adults who regularly walked their dogs were approximately 25% less likely to be obese than their non dog-owning neighbors. And in children, dog ownership reduced the risk of obesity by half. Walking the dog may be more fun than screen-time. In addition, walking for 30 minutes a day will reduce the risk of coronary heart disease, osteoporosis, and diabetes.

Canine obesity is a problem, too. It’s estimated that over 50% of dogs in the United States are overweight. The fact is that obese dogs don’t live as long as lean dogs. Plus they suffer more heart problems and joint ailments that affect their quality of life. It’s true that dogs may exercise themselves if left in a fenced-in yard, but, like us, they have a tendency to plop down in the shade instead of romping, especially if there’s no one to play with. However, if given the chance, they will gladly go for a walk with their owners!

How much should we walk?

According to the World Health Organization, children 5-17 years old should receive 60 minutes of moderate to vigorous exercise every day. Adults 18-65 years old should engage in moderate exercise for 30 minutes 5 days a week and engage in strengthening exercises twice weekly. Seniors over 65 should also participate in moderate exercise 5 days a week and add flexibility and balance routines.

Walking your dog is a great start to fulfilling these recommendations. In fact, research at the University of Western Australia illustrated that while only 4 out of 10 people achieve 150 minutes of weekly exercise, 7 out of 10 dog owners reached that goal.

How do we get started?

Many people make a New Year’s resolution to exercise. What can you do to stick to your resolution? Make a reasonable exercise plan that doesn’t overwhelm you by including your best exercise buddy. Formulating a reasonable walking schedule that doesn’t overtax your body or crowd your busy schedule will help you stay on target, and including your dog will motivate you to get going.

Start out slowly by taking a few 10-minute practice walks around the neighborhood. When you and your dog are ready, increase the time and distance. Try to walk for a total of 30 minutes each day – and it doesn’t have to be all in one outing. You can take a 10-minute walk in the morning before work and add a 20-minute stroll when you get home. On weekends, you can vary the routine, perhaps doing three 10 minute sessions. Regardless of the schedule, strive for 30 minutes of daily exercise.

Keep the routine interesting by walking in different areas that provide visual interest for both you and your dog. Or substitute a game of fetch or a romp in the park if you feel up to it. The goal is to make exercise a priority that holds a scheduled spot in each day so that you feel less likely to weasel out of the plan. It won’t take long for your dog to get used to the routine and may remind you when it’s time to exercise. That’s why canines are great exercise companions!

Dog owners who like to mark their progress can download a walking calendar or exercise app or utilize one of the popular electronic tracking devices that record daily steps and caloric history (calories consumed vs. burned). Sometimes seeing the numbers provides additional motivation to walk a little further or validates your efforts when you reach your goal.

Rewarding your efforts

Some humans like to be rewarded for their workout efforts, so they grab a cookie or have a beer after exercise. After walking your dog, you may find their grateful, calorie-free affection is all the reward you need. And your dog will feel the same way! A simple stroll is a great way to say, “I love you!”

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